俄罗斯探险队成功完成乔戈里峰最难的线路[图]

K2西壁

　　Arriving at their 5000m basecamp on June 7, fifteen climbers, most of whom had taken part in the Jannu and Everest expeditions, began fixing ropes and establishing camps on a previously unattempted line left of the west ridge. After initial snow slopes above the Savoia Glacier, the meat of the route is formed by a large mixed rock buttress, which rises from ca. 6600m to ca. 8150m. Although there is a prominent curving couloir skirting the buttress on the left, the Russians chose to tackle a direct and far more difficult line up the center. They established Camp 2 immediately below the buttress, and the climbers set about solving the problem of the steep rock wall above. The initial section proved taxing, equally as hard as Jannu, and sported a three-meter overhang. Above, the angle was not as extreme but the difficulties still sustained. Operating in close-knit individual teams without recourse to supplementary oxygen, the expedition battled through inclement weather--and the eventual loss of two of its members due to altitude-related problems--to reach the top of the wall on July 30. Here, they placed Camp 6. Above, only easier-angled snow broken by occasional rocky ground separated them from the summit ridge.

　　十五个攀登者(其中大部分参与了 Jannu 和主峰探险)于6月7号达到了5000米的大本营，便开始在西山脊左边以前不可想象企图攀登的路线下修路和建营。在Savoia 冰川上方起步的雪坡上，艰难的路线被大面积的混合拱壁所组成，它是从海拔6600米到8150米的营地之间上升。虽然这里有一个突起的冰雪沟槽从左边连接着拱壁，俄罗斯人选择对付这条直上更难的路线直达拱壁。他们立即在拱壁下放建立了二号营地，而且攀登者想出了应付陡峭大岩壁的解决方法。最初的攀登绳段就被证实难度等同于Jannu的攀登，包含了一个三米的overhang攀登。再向上，虽然角度已经不是非常大了，但困难仍然持续出现。穿戴着严实的纺织衣物操作，独特的探险队没有借助更多的氧气，在严酷的天气下作战中最终因为高度适应的问题失去了两个队员，最后到达大岩壁顶的时候是7月30号。这里，他们建立了六号营地。在向上，因为一个角度比较小的雪坡被偶然坠落的岩石区域切段，封堵了他们通往顶峰的山脊。

　　Bad weather stopped activity for a few days but then Alexey Bolotov, Gennady Kirievsky and Nokolay Totmjanin moved back up the mountain, spent four days in Camp 5 waiting for a weather window, and on August 10 left Camp 6 for a summit push. Deep snow, reported at times to be up to their chests, slowed them considerably, and then at 8500 meters they hit an unexpected, vertical rock step. Exhausted, and unable to find a way through, the three retreated.

　　坏天气中断了攀登活动几天后，Alexey Bolotov， Gennady Kirievsky 和 Nokolay Totmjanin 重新回到了攀登中，用了4天时间在五号营地等待天气好转，最后在8月10号离开了六号营地向顶峰突击。深厚的积雪，不时的汇报让他们消耗了很多，相当大地拖累了他们的速度。然后，在8500米的地方，他们有意外的遇到一个垂直岩石台阶。体能即将耗尽，而且不能找到通过的路径，最后他们选择放弃撤退。

　　But the Russians are nothing if not highly tenacious. Finally, on August 21, the weather allowed them another shot. This time Andrey Mariev and Vadim Popovich overcame the rock step and climbed the final ridge to the summit. On the next day nine other members, Bolotov with Totmjanin, followed by Gleb Sokolov, Eugeny Vinogradsky, the three-man team of Victor Volodin, Kirievsky and Vitaly Gorelik, and finally Shabalin with Ilias Tukhvatullin retraced their footsteps. This was a particularly notable effort for Popovich, who prior to this expedition had never climbed an 8000-meter peak, and Shabalin, who together with Tukhvatullin had spent the previous four days at or above 8150 meters and was one of two grandfathers to reach the summit.

　　然而，俄罗斯人是非常顽强的。最后，在8月21日，天气好转给他们另外一个冲击的机会。这次Andrey Mariev 和 Vadim Popovich克服了岩石台阶，并且通过了最后的山脊到达了顶峰。第二天，另外九名队员：Bolotov 和 Totmjanin 带领 Gleb Sokolov， Eugeny Vinogradsky，三人组Victor Volodin， Kirievsky an和 Vitaly Gorelik，最后是Shabalin 和 Ilias Tukhvatullin，跟着前面的脚印登顶。这里要特别指出的是，Popovich在这次探险之前从没有攀登过8000米级山峰，Shabalin和Tukhvatullin在8150米以上的海拔度过了四天，作为一个祖父的年纪达到了顶峰。

　　Criticism often is leveled at the heavy-weight, traditional Russian tactics still used on big mountains, but their talent to overcome great technical difficulties at very high altitudes--and the now-famous ability to stick with it through very harsh conditions--has led to the completion of some highly impressive projects over the last few years. Individuals will need to make up their own minds about whether alpine-style ascents of the same objectives are feasible at the current time.

　　评论经常认为俄罗斯人仍然运用传统战术去攀登大的山峰，但是他们在很高的海拔克服很大技术难题的能力，在严酷环境下作战的本领，以及早些年完成的一些高难度计划给人留下了深刻影象。独特的风格需要有他们自己的思维，最出决定当前用阿尔卑斯方式攀登同样的目标是否是可行的。

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