Haley和Garibotti Cerro Torre群峰连登报告[组图]

添加时间:2008-02-03 来源:中国户外资料网 作者:大鹏 faye【本站编辑】
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Cerro Torre峰群
左至右依次为:Cerro Torre、Torre Egger、
Punta Herron和Cerro Standhardt

  The Torre Traverse climbs from north to south the skyline comprised by Aguja Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger and Cerro Torre, with approximately 2200 meters of vertical gain. This traverse is the brainchild of Italians Andrea Sarchi, Maurizio Giarolli, Elio Orlandi and Ermanno Salvaterra, who tried it on several occasions in the late 80s and early 1990s. In 1991 Salvaterra, together with Adriano Cavallaro and Ferruccio Vidi managed to climb to Punta Herron, completing what is likely the first ascent of the peak. Salvaterra climbed Herron via a new route on the north ridge, the aesthetic Spigolo dei Bimbi.

  此次横切攀登的路线从北到南依次是Aguja Standhardt、 Punta Herron、 Torre Egger 和Cerro Torre,垂直距离达2200米,由意大利登山队(Andrea Sarchi, Maurizio Giarolli, Elio Orlandi and Ermanno Salvaterra组成)开辟,他们在上世纪80年代末和90年代初曾多次尝试完成此路线。1991年Salvaterra曾联合Adriano Cavallaro 和 Ferruccio Vidi试图完成首次攀登Punta Herron,Salvaterra沿Herron北坡的新路线Spigolo dei Bimbi.进行攀登,但未成功。

  In early 2005, German Thomas Huber, together with the Swiss Andi Schnarf completed the Standhardt to Egger traverse. Having only intended to climb Standhardt via "Festerville," they decided on the summit to continue on toward Egger, and moving light and fast completed this section of the traverse in 38 hours round trip, and descended via Egger's "Titanic" route on the east ridge.

  2005年初,德国人German Thomas Huber与瑞士人Andi Schnarf组队完成从Standhardt横切攀登至Egger峰。当时他们沿"Festerville"路线登顶Standhardt后,决定再向Egger峰进军,他们的动作非常轻快,整个过程共耗时38小时,从Egger峰东面山脊沿"Titanic"路线下山。

  In late 2005, Salvaterra, together with Alessandro Beltrami and Rolando Garibotti, solved the last remaining puzzle of the traverse when they climbed Cerro Torre from the north via a new route, "Arca de los Vientos." With a route finally completed from the Col of Conquest to Cerro Torre's summit, Salvaterra returned in 2006 with Beltrami and Garibotti to try the traverse yet again, but bad weather prevented him from getting further than Standhardt.

  2005年年末,当Salvaterra、Alessandro Beltrami、Rolando Garibotti组成的攀登队在北坡沿名为"Arca de los Vientos."的新路线攀登Cerro Torre的时候找到了4峰连登线路最后一个障碍的解决办法。在完成了从Conquest山口到Cerro Torre顶峰的线路之后,2006年三人再次返回试图4峰连登时,恶劣的天气把他们阻止在了Standhardt峰。

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