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攀岩名词解释(On-sight、Redpoint)
添加时间:2003-6-15 00:00 作者:admin
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一般的定义:

「On-sight」:事前不知道该路线的攀爬信息,第一次爬该路线就无坠落成功地完攀。
Climbing a route for the first time and not falling, without having been given any previous information concerning the route.

「Redpoint」:事前曾练习爬过该路线,以先锋攀登的方式、无坠落地完攀该路线。
To successfully climb a route on lead, without falling, after practice or rehearsal of required sequence.

较严谨的定义:

「On-sight」:定义同上,要自己挂快扣。

「Redpoint」:定义同上,要自己挂快扣。
To lead a route, clipping protection as you go, without falling or resting on pro.

「Flash」:定义同on-sight,要自己挂快扣,事前可以知道攀爬信息(例如看别人爬、问别人怎爬)
to climb a route first try without ever having touched the route, but with the aid of beta.

「Pinkpoint」:定义同on-sight,快扣已挂在上面,只须把绳子挂进快扣中即可。
To lead (without falling) a climb that has been pre-protected with anchors rigged with carabiners.

其它:

「Hangdogging」:爬路线中途,会利用绳子受力休息。
”Climbing” a route, usuallying bolt to bolt, with the aid of the rope to hang and rest.
When a leader hangs from a piece of protection to rest, then continues on without lowering back to the ground; not a free ascent.

参考资料:
Eric J. Horst, 「How to climb 5.12」, 1997
Heather Reynolds Sagar, 「Climbing your Best」,2001
John Long, 「How to Rock Climb!」, 1998

如有错误或误解意义的地方,请不吝指教~ 

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