乔戈里峰—野蛮之峰 [组图]

　　On July 1, Camp I was established and several others followed. Theweather looked stabile and clear.

　　7月1日，1号营建立了；随后其他几个营地也陆续建立好了。当地天气又稳定又晴朗。

　　On July 18, Houston and Petzoldt reached the "shoulder" at 7,740 metres and theysucceeded in conquering the difficulties on thelowerpart of the mountain , the last high altitude camp was established at 7,530 metres.

　　7月18日，休斯顿和匹兹荷迪特（Petzholdt）抵达了海拔7，740米的山峰“肩部”，他们成功征服了在山峰低部地段遇到的困难。最后一个高营建立在海拔7，530米的高度上。

　　On July 21, Houston and Petzholdt started to push upwards again, trying to find possible sites for Camp VIII. A place is found right below the top pyramid. Petzholt however, continued climbing further on, trying the rocks, his highest point is estimated to be at 7,925 metres.The sky was clear and the sun warm. Continue or not? The decision was made and they started the descent. The expedition results looked promising, for the first time K2s summit was threatened for real.

　　7月21日，休斯顿和匹兹荷迪特两人又开始向上攀登，试图为8号营找一个合适的地点。他们在金字塔型山峰顶部的正下方找到了一个地方。然而匹兹荷迪特试图爬越岩石，继续进一步往上攀登。他攀登的最高点据估计是在海拔7，925米的高度。天空晴朗，阳光温暖明媚。是继续攀登还是下撤？他们决定开始下撤。这一次的探险结果看起来大有可为，因为乔戈里峰第一次几乎就要被登顶

　　1939 - GRIM DAYS

　　1939年—残酷的日子

　　Again the Americans stood in front of K2, this time with the excellent German-American climber Fritz Wiessner as the leader and again Pasang Kikuli leading the Sherpas. However, the other climbers didnt measure up to Wiessners class, something that would have serious consequences later on.

　　美国人又一次站在了乔戈里峰面前。这一次，探险队是由优秀的登山家德裔美国人福利兹·维斯纳（Fritz Wiessner）所率领，还是由帕桑·基库里来率领夏尔巴人挑夫队伍。然而，其他登山者的登山水平参差不齐，并没有达到维斯纳所要求的标准档次，这给后来的攀登中带来了严重后果。

　　Camps I - VII were set up at the same places as the year before and Camp VIII was established at 7,710 metres, the expedition member Wolfe remained here when Wiessner and Pasang went on ahead to set up Camp IX at 7,940 metres. On July 19 Wiessner and Pasang decided to try for the summit. They climbed through the rocks and it became extremely arduous. At 6 p.m. they reached about 8,380 metres. Pasang refused to continue, saying it was too late. Wiessner wanted to continue, the weather was so good and clear that the climb could be done in the moonlight. Pasang is immovable, and they start the descent.

　　他们在上一年探险队扎过营的相同地方上建立了1至7号营地，而8号营地则被建立在海拔7，710米的地方。探险队员沃尔夫（Wolfe）留在8号营，维斯纳和帕桑则继续前进，并将9号营建在海拔7，940米的地方。7月19日，维斯纳和帕桑决定争取冲顶。他们爬越了极其陡峭的岩石。下午6点，他们抵达了海拔大约8，380米的地方。帕桑说时间太晚了，拒绝继续向上攀登。维斯纳想继续攀登，认为天气很晴朗，在月光下也能够攀登。但是帕桑不为之所动，于是他们开始下撤。

　　During the descent, the rope got stuck in Pasangs crampon and was torn away from his pack and fell down the abyss. At 2.30 a.m. they reached Camp IX totally exhausted. Their big chance had slipped away through their hands; they had been closer to reaching an 8,000-metre summit than anyone before.

　　在下撤过程中，绳索钩住了帕桑的冰爪；冰爪从他的背包上被扯下来掉到了深渊里。凌晨2点半，他们完全筋疲力尽地返回到了9号营地。一次大好机会就这样白白从他们手中溜走了。他们比以前任何人都已经更接近这座海拔8，000米的巨峰峰顶了。

　　The next day, they rested, but the following day another try was made,taking a different route. Passang had only one crampon. After major difficulties, they headed back again.

　　第二天他们休息养精蓄锐；但是第三天他们从另外一条不同的路线尝试冲顶。帕桑只剩下一只冰爪了。在遇到极大困难之后，他们又一次往回下撤。

　　With no supplies remaining the following day, they descended to camp VIII, where Wolf welcome them with delight, he told them that during the entire time they were gone, no one had come up from Camp VII where a bigger supply depot was supposed to be. When reaching Camp VII, they found it abandoned. They spent the night there and the following morning decided that Wolf would remain, while Wiessner and Pasang continued down to organise a new attack. When they got to Camp VI it was clear that a catastrophe was near, also this Camp was abandoned, as were all the other Camps all the way to Camp II!

　　接下来几天由于给养耗尽，他们下撤到了8号营，在那里沃尔夫高兴地迎接他们。沃尔夫告诉他们，在他们不在的整段时间里，没有人从给养更加充足的补给站7号营上来。当他们抵达7号营，发现它已经被废弃了。他们在7号营过了一夜。第二天早上，维斯纳决定让沃尔夫留在7号营，他和帕桑继续下撤去组织一次新的攀登。当他们到达6号营的时候发现，一场大灾难很明显就要来临了：这个营地同样也被废弃了，而且一直到2号营的其他营地都是同样命运

　　Completely exhausted both physically and mentally, and suffering from frostbite, Weissner and Pasang reached Base Camp on July 24. While they had struggled for the summit, the whole organisation had completely fallen apart. Against Weissners orders, the remaining members of the expedition (that never reached higher then Camp II) had given the Sherpas orders to abandon all Camps up to number VII.

　　身心俱疲，又遭受冻伤的痛苦折磨，维斯纳和帕桑总算在7月24日抵达了大本营。就在他们拼命挣扎冲顶时，整个探险队已经完全崩溃瓦解了。探险队留下的其他队员（这些队员还没到达过比2号营更高的地方呢）违背了维斯纳的命令，他们命令夏尔巴人废弃了直到7号营的所有营地。

　　Now they had to save Wolfe! After two desperate and failed attempts, Pasang Kikuli and some other Sherpas managed to reach Camp VI on July 28. The next morning they got up to Camp VII and the very exhausted and apathetic Wolfe. Even after being given hot drinks he couldnt manage to descend immediately, but promised to be ready the following morning. The Sherpas returned to Camp VI where they spent the night. A storm with bad weather started to rage over K2 and they had to wait another day. At dawn on July 31 Pasang and two other Sherpas again climbed to Camp VII while the fourth, Tsering, remained in camp. A decision was made to somehow get Wolfe down or at least get a written message from him that would free them from all responsibility.

　　现在他们得回去营救沃尔夫！两次孤注一掷的失败尝试之后，帕桑和其他一些夏尔巴人总算在7月28号抵达了6号营。翌日清晨，他们爬上了7号营。沃尔夫已经筋疲力尽，无精打采了。即使给他喂了热水他也没办法立即下撤，但是他答应为次日早上的下撤做做准备。夏尔巴人们返回6号营过夜。坏天气带来的风暴雪开始在乔戈里峰上狂吹肆虐，他们不得不再等一天。7月31日拂晓时分，帕桑和另外两个夏尔巴人再次攀登到7号营，第四个夏尔巴人曾零（Tsering）则留在6号营。他们决定要千方百计把沃尔夫弄下去，或者至少要他写张纸条使他们能够解脱所有的责任。

　　This was the last ever heard from these four men. On August 2, Tsering alone reached Base Camp and told that none had returned and that no sign of human life could been seen higher up. Wiesser made a last desperate rescue attempt but was forced to give up after spending three days in Camp II waiting out a storm. This meant the end, any survivor could no longer be found on the mountain. Dudley Wolfe, Pasang Kikuli, Pasang Kitar and Pintso rest forever on K2. So ended the second American attempt on K2, with a tragedy. The expedition got massive criticism from both England and the U.S.A., and Wiessner had difficulties defending himself, but he was hardly the one to blame. Pasang Kikuli was one of the best Sherpas, and at this time he was equally compared to the now world famous Tenzing Norgay.

　　这是人们最后一次得到这四个夏尔巴人的消息了。8月2日，曾零自个儿抵达了大本营，告诉探险队说，没人返回了；高峰上也看不到生命生还的迹象了。维斯纳最后决定孤注一掷去营救他们，但是在2号营等到暴风雪过后的三天后，他们被迫放弃了营救。这就意味着，最后山上再也找不到任何生还者了。达德里·沃尔夫（Dudley Wolfe）,帕桑·基库里（Pasang Kikuli）,帕桑·基塔（Pasang Kitar）和品特索（Pintso）四人已永远长眠在乔戈里峰上了。第二支美国队的攀登乔戈里峰以悲剧收场。探险队在英国和美国受到了广泛地批评。维斯纳很艰难地为自己辩护；但是他是最不应该被谴责的一个。帕桑·基库里是最优秀的夏尔巴人之一，在当时，他同样可以和当今闻名全球的丹增·诺尔盖【7】（Tenzing Norgay）相提并论

　　【7】Tenzing Norgay：丹增·诺尔盖，尼泊尔人，1953年和埃德蒙·希拉里爵士（Sir Edmund Hillary）创下人类史上第一次成功攀登世界第一高峰珠穆朗玛峰之记录。

　　1953 - CLOSE CALL

　　1953年—邻近的召唤

　　After the war, due to the political conditions, no expeditions were made to Karakorum until 1953 when the Americans again headed for K2. The expedition consisted of eight men, including the veterans Houston and Bates (from the 1938 expedition), Tony Streather (who had been with the Norwegians on Tirich Mir in 1950) and George Bell (famous for his climbs in the Andes) in the front line. On June 19, Base Camp is established below the Abruzzi-Spur at 5,000 metres. The expedition didnt have any Sherpas since they had been denied entrance to Pakistan, they had to manage with carriers from the Hunza-people, who did show climbing talent. During the following three weeks the Camps were established - mainly in the same places as in 1938 and 1939. The weather looked good, but slowly turned. Suddenly storm winds became common, and all climbing activity was stopped for several days.

　　战后，由于政治形势的影响，直到1953年美国人再次向乔戈里峰进发前，都没有探险队进驻过喀喇昆仑地区。探险队由8人组成，第一线队员包括经验丰富的休斯顿和贝兹（Bates --1938年的探险队队员），汤尼·斯特利德（Tony Streather--曾于1950年和挪威人攀登过蒂里奇米尔峰【8】）和乔治·贝尔（George Bell--因攀登安第斯山脉而闻名遐迩）。6月19日，他们将大本营建在海拔5，000米的阿布拉孜山脊（Abruzzi-Spur）下。由于巴基斯坦政府不允许他们过境，探险队没办法雇佣夏尔巴挑夫，因此他们不得不安排根本不具备攀登天赋的罕萨【9】（Hunza）人作挑夫。在随后的三个星期当中，他们主要在1938年和1939年探险队扎过营的相同地方上建立了营地。天气看起来很好，但也在慢慢转变。突然暴风变得很常见了，所有的登山活动不得不停下来休整几天。

　　【8】Tirich Mir：蒂里奇米尔峰，世界著名雪峰。在巴基斯坦吉德拉尔以北55公里，邻近阿富汗边界。兴都库什山脉最高峰，也是巴基斯坦最高峰。海拔7，690米，世界第65高峰。
　　【9】Hunza：罕萨，又名“巴勒提特”（Baltit），“卡里马巴德”（Karimabad）。南亚克什米尔城镇。位于巴基斯坦吉尔吉特市的东北部罕萨河右岸。贸易中心。被誉为巴基斯坦最美丽的地方，背包客的世外桃源。由罕萨沿罕萨河谷东北经明铁盖山口可到中国新疆，往南经吉尔吉特市，沿印度河谷抵伊斯兰堡。

　　Finally, on August 1, the entire eight man team was together in Camp VIII at 7,750 metres, all in their very best shape and ready for the final attack.

　　最后，在8月1日，探险队全部8个队员都爬到了海拔7，750米的8号营。所有人的身体状况都很好，准备做最后的登顶冲刺。

　　Then the Gods of the mountain attacked! A violent snowstorm started to rage day and night. Thanks to Houston they had supplies for 10 - 12 days. A vote was taken, and two rope-teams were chosen for the attack against summit. All they needed was a few days of good weather. However, the storm never calmed down. Instead, the wind increased, shaking the tents more and more. On August 4 the 26-year-old Gilkey suffered a thrombus in one of his legs, it was almost impossible for him to move. His condition deteriorated and also his lungs were attacked after a few days. In the raging storm there was no possibility to get him down quickly to Base Camp - most probably, it would have been difficult to transport him at all.

　　这时山神发怒了！狂暴的暴风雪开始夜以继日地狂吹肆虐。多亏了休斯顿，探险队才有能坚持10-20天的供给。他们投票选出两个结组冲顶。他们需要的不过是几个好天气。但是暴风雪却没有一点停下来的迹象，相反越吹越猛，吹得帐篷东倒西歪，摇摇欲坠。8月4日，26岁的吉尔奇（Gilkey）有一只腿患了血栓，几乎不能移动了。他的健康状况迅速恶化，几天后他的肺部也出现了问题。在猛烈的暴风雪中要迅速把他送回到大本营是不可能的了—甚至可以说，要搬动他根本是很困难的事了。

　　Now it was a fight for everybodys life. It was clear that the storm would continue for some time. On August 10, the situation got critical in thehighest camp. There were almost no suppliesleft and Gilkeyscondition was very serious. Bell had also lost the feeling in his toes.

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