乔戈里峰的历史背景[组图]

　　1856年，正当英国加强对印度的控制而引起了印度1857年独立战争的时候，一个年轻的英国皇家工兵陆军中尉T.G. 蒙特哥摩利正悄悄忙于勘察克什米尔境内的山峰。在他的勘察当中，他发现在遥远之处，有一座高大显著的山峰朝喀喇昆仑山脉地区方向屹立着，他立即将其命名为“K1”（K代表喀喇昆仑山脉）。之后，它被证明是巴拉提斯坦卡布鲁地区哈什山谷里一座美丽的山峰，当地土语称之为“马舒布鲁木峰”。他也看见了另一座高峰高耸在马舒布鲁木峰（K1）后面，并将之命名为“K2”，之后证明这就是“乔戈里峰”。然而，“K2”这个名字仍在使用。

　　Lieutenant Montgomerie was a good surveyor. He was the person who planned and organized the survey of Kashmir. He was also an unofficial political adviser to Gulab Singh, the then Maharaja of Kashmir. After Gulab Singhs death in 1857, Montgomerie continued his survey work as he carried the same influence with Maharaja Ranjit Singh, the successor of Gulab Singh. Montgomerie trained many locals in surveying. His students did good reconnaissance work in remote areas forbidden to foreigners because of local suspicions. A famous but unfortunate student of his was Muhammad Hameed.

　　蒙特哥摩利中尉是个不错的测量员。他策划组织勘察了克什米尔。他也是当时在位的克什米尔王公古拉·辛格的非官方政治顾问。1857年古拉·辛格王公驾崩后，由于蒙特哥摩利中尉具有和王公继承人马哈拉加·兰吉特?辛格一样的影响力，他得以继续他的勘察工作。蒙特哥摩利中尉还培训了许多当地测量员。因为当地人的猜忌，他的学生在遥远偏僻、禁止外国人进入的地区进行了不错的勘察工作。他有个著名但不幸的学生就是默罕麦德·哈米德。

　　In 1860, Captain Henry Haversham Godwin-Austen, of the Survey of India, went to the Baltistan area and surveyed the famous Shigar and Saltoro valleys. This greatly contributed to the knowledge of the area. He was an officer in the 24th Foot Battalion, later the South Wales Borderers, and had also served in the Second Anglo- Burmese War in 1852. Earlier, he had joined Montgomerie at a survey station in Kashmir in 1857. He also surveyed the Kajnag range in southern Kashmir and was the first to put Gulmarg on the map. In 1858-59, he surveyed eastern Kashmir including Jammu. In 1861, he started from Skardu and entered Braldu valley from Skoro-La (5,043m). He then climbed and surveyed the Chogo-lungma, Kero Lungma, Biafo and Panmah glaciers. It was from Kero Lungma that Godwin-Austen climbed the Nushik pass (4,990m/1 6,371 ft) and is stated to have entered the 53-km-long Hispar glacier. He was perhaps the first European to reach it. He, however, did not survey it. He was considered as one of the greatest mountaineers of the day, had great power of endurance and was immensely brave. It is a myth that the K2 peak, which was erroneously called Godwin-Austen peak, was discovered by him. It is, however, a fact that he explored the gateway to K2 (the Baltoro glacier), along with famous glaciers including Godwin-Austen glacier. This was indeed his outstanding contribution to the geography of the area.

　　1860年，印度测量部门亨利·哈佛沙姆·戈德温-奥斯仃队长到巴拉提斯坦地区对著名的施迦和萨尔托洛山谷进行勘察。这对了解这个地区具有极大的贡献。他是第24步兵营的军官，之后居住在南威尔士边境地区(即威尔士南部和英格兰接壤边境)，他也曾在1852年第二次英缅战争中服过役。早在1857年，他曾加入到蒙特哥摩利中尉在克什米尔的勘察站。他也曾勘察过克什米尔南部的卡吉纳山脉，并首次将古尔马格峰画在地图上。1858年至1859年，他对包括查谟在内的克什米尔东部地区进行勘察。1861年，他从斯卡都出发，从海拔5,043米的斯科罗拉峰进入巴拉尔度山谷。然后他爬上乔戈-兰马，科罗兰马，比亚弗和潘马等冰川进行勘测。就是从科罗兰马冰川戈德温-奥斯仃爬上了海拔4,990米（16,371英尺）的努什克山口，据说还曾进入了长达53公里的希斯巴冰川。他很可能就是到达这一冰川的首位欧洲人。然而他并没有对这一冰川进行勘测。他具有强大的忍耐力和巨大的胆识，被誉为当时最伟大的登山家之一。被错误称为戈德温-奥斯仃峰的乔戈里峰是他发现的，这真是荒诞的说法。然而事实上，他探测到了通往乔戈里峰的门户—巴尔托洛冰川，和其他包括戈德温-奥斯仃冰川在内的一些著名冰川。

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