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Piolet d¡¯or 91
The first Piolet d¡¯or was awarded to the Slovenian duo Marko Prezelj and Andrej Stremfelj for the first ascent of a 3000m route on the Southern pillar of Kangchenjunga
(Himalaya, 8 476 m).
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During the descent I kept looking across at the west face of Edgar (this face was attempted in 2011 by Russians, who retreated after 400m, see AAJ 2012). I had a strange feeling, as if the mountain were calling me. I tried to dismiss it from my mind, as the team had already defined its plan. But the calling was strong. After dinner and heading to my sleeping bag, I instinctively decided to go for the unclimbed west face alone. Shortly after midnight, I headed out, illuminated by the full moon.
On the face, I climbed a series of difficult goulottes through steep terrain, with sections of thin and delicate ice. In the final part I had to overcome a section of mixed climbing to reach the ridge, which was laden with powder and snow mushrooms, like you see in Patagonia. Here, I had to use all my strength and concentration. A large snow structure broke away just in front of me and fell into the darkness. I had a bad fright! At 6.15 a.m., still in the dark, I reached the summit. I couldn¡¯t believe what I had just done: the first ascent of the face and the third overall of the summit. I tried to maintain full concentration during the descent of the southwest ridge (the 2001 Korean route of the first ascent of Edgar) until I reached base camp, where I celebrated with my friends. Climbed on October 7, the Moon's Power is 1,000m, WI4+ M4+, with thin ice.
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Õâ¸ö½ÐTomas FranchiniµÄÒâ´óÀûÈËÊǶӳ¤£¬ÎÒ¾õµÃËûÊǺÜÉñµÄÒ»¸öÈË£¬ÒòΪʺóËû˵Õâ´ÎËäÈ»µÇÁËÕâô¶à×ùɽ£¬µ«Ëû×îÂúÒâµÄ»¹ÊÇÔÚ2017Äê10ÔÂ7ÈÕµÄÂúÔÂÖ®Ò¹¶À×ÔÒ»ÈËsoloÊ׵ǰ®µÂ¼Î·åÎ÷±Ú£¬ËûΪ¸Ã·ÏßÃüÃûMoon's Power ¼¼ÊõÄÑ¶È 1,000m, WI4+ M4+, with thin ice.£¬ÎÒ¾õµÃÕâ¸ö¶¨¼¶Ã÷ÏÔÆ«µÍ£¬ÒòΪÁíһλ½ð±ù¸ä´óÅ£²¼Â³Ë¹¡¤ÅµÂüÔÚÓдµÄÇé¿öϸ㶨¶«±ÚÕûÕû»¨ÁË8Ììʱ¼ä£¬¸øÏß·µÄÄѶÈÆÀ¼¶ÊÇM6/WI5£¬²¢ÈÏΪ¸ÃÏß·±ÈËûµÃ½ð±ù¸äµÄÏß·»¹ÄÑ
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The trip was a great success for us all, but my greatest satisfaction was the solo climb of the west face of Edgar, a difficult psychological ascent where there was just me, the moon, and the mountain¡ªnothing else.
¨C Tomas Franchini, Italy
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