先介绍一下骑士本人，fb id，nilowss台湾人，热爱单车旅行的率性而为人士，相识多年老友，2012年于德黑兰第一次遇见，其时他正进行德国出发过中东前往非洲大陆的单车之旅。
这段时间，他正进行从北美阿拉斯加一路南下去智利的单车旅行，一天聊起的时候，说起想把他的旅行见闻放在大陆的BBS，欣然同意，所以才有了此篇。由于有的时候在8264可能更新不及时，也可以移步我的个人公众号
---------------------------------------------------我是正文分割线------------------------------------------
3/30抵達阿拉斯加首府安克拉治(Anchorage)
完全不冷，這是抵達這裡的第一印象，只是前一兩天雨雪交加的天氣讓市區積水與泥濘遍處。
我從定房網站預定的旅館三星級Clariton Suites Downtown也許是這個安克拉治的首選之一，至少我在這裡遇到許多觀光客，包含兩組中國旅客。雙人房原價約80美金，不知怎麼來著讓我定到兩晚110美金(12%稅外加)的神奇價位(若兩人共住，平均一人的價位已遠比宿舍格局的背包客棧便宜許多)，房間為一房一廳格局(也就是共有兩台電視)，床鋪遠離門口因此不會被走廊噪音干擾，房間另有微波爐與小咖啡機，更重要的是有免費機場接駁車。
原先計畫是直接騎車前往旅館，但是看到覆蓋褐色積水與雪泥的機場道路讓我打消念頭。美國有許多單車友善的城市，但不包含安克拉治這個人口僅約30萬人的小鎮。路況是一個問題(主要公路在降下大雪後的24小時內即完成除雪，但是不一定包括路旁的人行道)，駕駛人的反應是另一個問題。但是安克拉治城區內有許多單車店，幫助旅客的大小疑慮。
旅館房間的窗戶可觀賞極光，但是兩日的陰霾遮住了預報說的極光活耀。在入境方面，海關幾乎詳細詢問每位同班機的旅客的詳細行程，也可能包含"陷阱題"－以我而言是『單車在哪裡』－絕多數單車旅行旅客會自備單車，而非下飛機之後再選購。我在機場遇到另一位單車旅行騎士，他是日本退休人士，計畫騎車到Fairbanks(著名極光觀賞地)再搭火車回程，不只計畫不同，我們的單車紙箱也受到完全不同的待遇。
4/1 Anchorage--Palmer 42miles
4/2 Palmer--Victory bible camp 42.7miles
宗教有許多作用，在經濟上，宗教是造成所得重分配的重要力量。
Victory bible camp，顧名思義的成立宗旨不讓人例外，但特別的是這裡是許多單車旅客的中繼站－幸運的也許不是我在安克拉治(Anchorage)的旅館與工作人員Kim萍水相逢，而是他們常遇到來自世界各地的單車旅客，並接待他們。
單車旅客在這裡的食宿都是免費的，而這個免費是所得重分配的結果－源自信仰的捐獻，後來輾轉間接的成為單車旅客的庇護所。而這裡也是觀賞極光的絕佳地點，只可惜四月二日伴隨上旋月與滿天星斗的夜空不見任何舞動螢光。
從安克拉治到Victory bible camp94.7英哩，單車騎士理當在離開安克拉治的起初約20英哩使用單車專用道，但是單車專用道覆蓋厚實皚雪難以前行，起初尚可直接騎在馬路上，或是使用Glenn highway(我離開安克拉治前往加拿大邊界騎乘的公路名稱)兩側的平行道路，但是之後所有替代道路都進入了軍營，我只能在單車道上奮力抵抗積雪推車前行，約2小時4英哩的路程後，在我考量冒險使用高速公路的路肩之際，路旁一台願意提供短程接駁的小貨車解決了當時的燃眉之急。(事實上，過了這段有單車專用道的20英哩，單車就是騎在路肩上，別無選擇。差別在於越離開市區，車流量越低)。
爾後的路段多與Mat-Su河谷平行，這個提供阿拉斯加主要農業區水源的河流在冬季提供了許多壯觀的冰河風景，公路路況良好無積雪，多處並有以減速條間隔的路肩供單車騎士使用。路旁設施眾多且多有指標告知。
4/4 Victory bible camp (at Glenn highway MPH(英哩里程) 94.7--Nelchina lodge(at Glenn highway MPH 143)
4/5 Nelchina lodge--Glennalen airstrip(簡易機場)(距離位於MPH189的Glennalen 3英里)
某方面來說，趕不上變化的計畫早就在計畫之中。
私人露營場地直到五月才營業，是早知道的資訊，但是公有露營休憩場地卻被白雪覆蓋，算是意料之中嗎?
可以上戰場的禦寒衣物，遇到迎面而來的瑟縮寒風仍是不堪，而午後的風速陡升，讓人感到由衷寒意且直冒冷顫，而4/4半路的Eukera summit，海拔僅約1100公尺的高點，卻有著似乎想要吹走所有旅客的冷冽疾風。加上露營場地的不可及，旅館似乎是唯一選項。
與其在意付出，不如了解得到多少，是我多年旅行的小小收穫。與其在寂寞的夜空下露營，更好的選擇也許是與當地人共處，即使只有三言兩語的短暫對話。
但是完全不在乎預算是不可能的，而4/5的GlennAllen居然找不到半家正常價位的旅館，這時候遇到善心的Steven，而airstrip的工作宿舍成為今晚的棲身之所。
旅遊不必太預設立場，操之在己，也操之在天。
4/6 Glennalen--Hart D ranch
4/7 Hart D ranch--Tok
共139Miles
在Tok，原本我打算過夜的背包客棧Stoves campground and hostel季節性歇業，經老闆轉介下，我到她兄弟的住處過夜，這不是正式旅館，僅算是家中空房供旅客暫住，提供給旅客平價親切的選擇，可在airbnb網站預定。
幾天前，Palmer的汽車旅館老闆問我：『你打算一路住旅館嗎？』
是否在路邊露營的考量因素很多，除了之前提到的天氣因素，諸如熊與狼等野生動物的出沒等，都會影響我的決定。
有趣的是，這似乎不像是一般旅館業者會問旅客的問題，而老闆也不是『運動型』，幾乎沒有單車旅行的經驗。
除了大城鎮的自行車道(安克拉治的自行車道沒除雪的確是一大敗筆)，讓我最驚訝的是駕駛人對自行車的友善(希望我沒把話說得太早)。一般來說，看到面前的自行車騎士乖乖的騎在寬闊的路肩，汽車駕駛會直接從自行車騎士身邊開過去，是吧，反正他沒擋到路，也不會有任何危險。
事實上，至少一半的駕駛人，會開到對向車道超車。
台灣真的有所謂的運動風氣嗎，還是只是陣痛般的在意體重機上的數字(用BMI計算理想體重不見得精准)，四年冷飯熱炒的計較奧運獎牌數。而若是獎牌數真的那麼重要，大可舉全國之力，發展一項獎牌數多但是較少受關注的運動，例如跆拳道。
而歐美國家放在發展運動的經費真的比較多嗎，那也不見得。但是當運動風氣良性循環，不但國內容易培養出運動選手，也容易吸引到國外的運動好手，這是簡單的道理。
這裡是真正的自由國度，做什麼都很特別，但也沒那麼不尋常。自行車騎士本來就是道路上交通的一份子，也享有路權。
04/09 Tok--Seaton roadhouse 約80英里
04/10 Seaton roadhouse--加拿大 Beaver creek 約30英里
(加拿大使用公制單位)
４月８日，在順風幫助下，我抵達距離出發地約80公里的Northway juction僅約下午2點，而不要忘記現在的日照時間長達15小時，日落時間超過下午８點。我本因依照Chris的建議尋求居民的協助--Northway是阿拉斯加原住民村落，以熱心的居民小有名氣。那時候我打定的注意是：因為時間尚早，我可以再往前推進不少距離，若沒人邀請我到他家住，就繼續騎，讓天決定。我坐在路口的雜貨店內，喝著加大加水不多加咖啡的美式咖啡，期待幸運降臨，結果只有一堆親切的問候。
那天晚上的露營地點是roadhouse，不見其物還不知道定義的建築物。有棚的建築物搭配桌椅理當是絕佳的露營場所，雖然roadhouse的原本用途並非如此而供短暫休憩。但是我在這裡卻徹夜難眠，除了水泥地面散發的寒氣，還有不知名動物撞了帳篷兩次。而在熊的國度裡，把食物放進帳棚內絕非好注意，而在帳棚外天然冷凍庫過夜的食物，冰凍在早上難以入口。
之後還會有更多露營體驗，包含4/11的『驚喜』，這部分之後再談，露營場地還沒開放的季節，在哪裡就看天了。
04/11 Beaver creek (@Alaska highway MPH1870,位於阿拉斯加公路里程1870公里)--Alaska highway MPH 1770
04/12 Alaska highway 1770MPH--Destruction bay @Alaska highway MPH 1684
04/13 To Haines juction @Alaska highway MPH1578
Please refer to the English version on the bottom.
歡迎來到加拿大育空，現在還算是冬天，啥都沒有。而橫貫育空的跨國公路--阿拉斯加公路(Alaska highway)，更加的人煙罕至。
可謂北加拿大與阿拉斯加的公路資訊聖經的the milepost(可至公路各雜貨店購買完整版或網路下載精簡版)，在育空部分的阿拉斯加公路上的『重要城鎮』，居民數量都是以『十』做單位，在這些人口不滿百的小鎮不能奢求太多，但是離開這些小鎮，往往是超過百里的無人煙荒原。在夏季(5-9月)偶爾還會看到停滿露營車的露營場地，裡面的遊客從事諸如健行划船等戶外活動，但在其他時候，幾乎所有經營露營場地的業主選擇離開極凍的北方內陸，可稱『五塊厝』的小鎮成為旅客唯一的依靠。
水果是我沿路補給的重要來源，但在Beaver creeke，美加邊界的加拿大小鎮，唯一的雜貨店裡稱得上檯面的水果只有一個台幣超過30元的表皮乾皺蘋果 。在五塊厝裡，除了雜貨店，修車行與加油站，汽車旅館與簡易餐廳，不會有太多其他設施。這些小鎮的經濟來源主要是過路旅客。在接近北極圈的內陸，不受海洋調節，冬季常會出現連續數週零下30度的低溫。『沒人想住在這裡。』
在兩個小鎮之間，在露營場地仍關閉的四月，住哪裡是一大問題。阿拉斯加Tok接待我的Chris的建議：敲居民的門問問看--常不管用，因為根本沒有居民！
甚至我在4/11被路上(應該是)唯一的居民打了回票，這間我在前一天得知的唯一確定有人民宅，是一家烘培坊(bakery)，『烘培坊』出現在荒蕪的道路上乍聽之下有點離奇，但事實上他們還有兼營旅館，只是不在冬季營業。而屋主似乎搞不清楚『我需要一間房間』與『我只是要一個地方過夜的差別。』
我最後落腳之處仍是一間路邊的木造涼亭，差別在於這間涼亭為木製地板，且架高設計隔絕來自結冰地面的寒氣。我不知道這是公共設施還是私人建物，但是沒欄杆阻擋，管他的。當然我還是留了字條告知『屋主』(若真的有)我無惡意，只是暫歇。
夜晚果真如預報所述降下薄雪，雖不阻礙交通，但若屋頂遮蔽，積雪絕對會讓帳棚難以收拾。找到這間隱身在樹叢之後的涼亭算是奇蹟，即使這非我原本預期。 04/14 休息日rest day, in Haines junction. Wanderer’s inn(小鎮唯一的hostel) 04/15 Haines junction(@Alaska highway MPH1578,位於阿拉斯加公路里程1578公里)--Idex valley subdivision @Alaska highway MPH 1472
04/16 Idex valley subdivision @Alaska highway MPH 1472--Whitehorse (白馬市，育空首府)@Alaska highway MPH 1424
第一次敲門，就敲到頭獎。
Haines junction，身為Kluane國家公園的門戶，也是人口數百的小鎮，卻神奇的有間背包客棧(hostel)，一晚40加幣。正值旅遊淡季，我在這裡包棟兩天，屋主每天只出現大概半小時，並很有效率得完成清理工作。
但這不是重點。
由Haines junction出發到首府白馬市，扣除白馬市郊區的設施，距離Haines junction不到30公里的餐廳，唯一的長在路旁的聚落，就只有沒有任何旅遊設施的Ibex subdivision。走進ibex，左邊是一家修車廠，右邊則是一間民房，這間民房就是Ban的家。Ibex位置在距離Haines junction約110公里處，也就是單車騎士多數情況下一天騎乘距離，而Ban的房子正在最明顯處，因此當Ben說他還接待過其他兩組單車旅客，我並不覺得意外。
我並不特別喜愛敲門求住的主要原因，不是怕被轟走。而是不喜歡當薛丁格的貓(Schr?dinger's CAT)，生死命運在開門瞬間決定。
一般說來，若是敲門求住是必須的，我會旁敲側擊了解屋主生活習性，庭園是其一。但是怎麼也沒料到會敲進酗酒者的住處。
先強調，Ban十分熱心親切，但我無法得知我看到的個性和桌上近10個啤酒瓶有沒有關係。相較廚房這個重災區，地板的髒亂只能算是正常能量釋放，雖然我很難分辨哪些是煙灰，哪些是寵物犬Bark乾燥的排泄物。Ban熟睡後電視音量仍如轟天雷，但是我找不到遙控...。
應該感激，不該抱怨，至少有溫暖的床舖。但是待在這裡讓我徹底的焦慮。除了環境髒亂，不時擔心他的善意會不會在酒精作用下突然來個峰迴路轉的變化。
一般我會避免在清晨最冷的時辰(約7-8點)騎車，而離開Ban的家卻破了例。下次敲門前，院子得再看清楚些，也許石頭翻開看看底下有啥。 04/17 Whitehorse @Alaska highway MPH 1424km(位於阿拉斯加公路里程1424公里)--Jack’s corner @Alaska highway MPH 1341.6km
04/18 Jack’s corner--Johnson’s crossing @Alaska highway MPH 1295.7
04/19 Johnson’s crossing--Morley lodge(廢棄，abandoned) @MPH 1202.5
零下10度，如同我之前po的照片，使得4/17住宿旅館與當天只騎不到50公里等進度不在預期之內。
以上是小插曲，這次要談得是另一種住宿(露營)選擇，廢棄旅館。很慶幸有這些地方讓我避風度夜，4/19的Morley lodge房間仍完整清潔，免搭帳棚直接鋪地舖即可，但又為這些業者感到惋惜。
阿拉斯加公路被列為20世紀最困難的道路工程之一，這不是因為地形險惡，而是她穿越幾乎沒有長駐居民的曠野，酷寒與諸如灰熊等野生動物，都使得工程險峻。
即使到了現代，在這條公路開旅館也不簡單，尤其在北方的育空地區。
這不是到鄉下開間民宿那麼單純，雖然水電煤氣不是問題，但是，舉例而言，從育空首府白馬市東方近200公里的Teslin到約440公路里的Nugget city，大約240公里的距離之間沒有任何聚落，當然也沒有常駐人口。在這段路上開旅館，除了補給，客源也是一大問題。一年四季都有卡車司機，但是他們多半有固定住所；多數旅客只在短暫的夏季出現。因為僅靠旅館收入難以維持，因此這些旅館多是複合式經營，包含餐廳，露營車停車場，加油站與修車站，經營者也得身兼數職，練就一身功夫。
有很多原因會讓他們會選擇在這裡生活與經營事業，但多數的他們是出於對這裡的喜愛。例如Jack’s corner的經營者是一對法國夫婦(已不再經營旅館，只剩餐廳等其他設施)，多數時候，他們也不會輕易放棄這份事業。
除了歲月，也有許多原因會逼迫他們放棄，其中一項是政府的升級要求。在這些設施之中，餐廳是最容易獲利的其中一項，但也是最會被要求升級的項目。美加政府很注重食品衛生，餐廳業者使用的抗菌設施必須與時精進。當業者無法負擔升級抗菌消毒設施的費用，他們就得放棄最容易獲利的簡易餐廳，最後很可能走向倒閉，例如這段路上在2009年關閉的Swift lodge。
享受路邊供我過夜的禮物的同時，不禁想起這些旅館都有風光時期，而往昔的業主是如何由重重困難開始一切，最後卻是令人感嘆的結局。業者離開這裡時多半會將門窗閉鎖以期待未來有重新開張的一天，但是諸如自然的力量，可能會讓大門敞開，也許進入的是野生動物，或是需要能遮風避寒過夜處的單車旅客。 04/20 Abandoned Morley lodge @Alaska highway MPH 1202.5km(位於阿拉斯加公路里程1202.5公里)--Rancheria lodge @Alaska highway MPH 1100km, free of charge to cyclists
04/21 Rancheria lodge--Watson lake @Alaska highway MPH 980
04/22 rest day in Watson lake
照片中的麻布袋(food proof bag)看起來不起眼，但是它號稱可防彈，熊爪無法造成破壞，一個近加幣120(超過新臺幣2500)。而雖然為保存食物用，袋口束緊後以雙八字結綁在堅韌樹枝或鐵桿上並盡量遠離地面。但是我想更正確的用法是當熊攻擊時，趕快把袋子套在頭上!
除此之外，防熊噴霧(bear spray)也是必備品，熊隻靠近時對它噴灑，噴灑前先觀察風向，否則熊可能會想說：『幹麼對自己噴辣椒粉，是在幫我加味嗎？』
接下來的500公里，也許是這趟旅行中最危險的路段。Muncho lake不止是人旅遊的熱門景點，也是熊的熱門居住地。
熊，不論是北美灰熊(grizzly bear)還是黑熊(black bear)，對旅客有莫大的吸引力，雖然絕多數的人熊接觸無害，但還是隱藏極大的風險。不像非洲草原上的獅子少見於國家公園之外，美加地區的熊隻在公路上並不罕見。因此我依照當地人的建議，將預計的路線由Cassiar highway改為續走Alaska highway(也就是我將會把阿拉斯加公路走透透)，因為後者路幅較寬，車流量相對大，比較能應對這些不速之客。
除了照片的食物保存袋，以下幾點是參考當地人建議單車旅客需注意的，而有些事項觀念不同於在其他地方單車旅遊。
1.不要把食物放在帳棚內，也盡量不要在營區附近煮食，到指定的炊事區或距離帳棚至少50公尺。
2.一般野營的原則是『別人看不到我，我看得見別人』，這裡不一樣。若不在有人看守的營地露營，在路邊的停車場會比僻靜的樹林內露營安全。
3.熊的嗅覺很敏銳，有強烈氣味的食物需先以密封袋保存再放進食物保存袋。露營時食物保存袋放進營區專用鐵櫃，或綁妥於堅韌樹枝或鐵桿，鐵桿較佳因為熊難以攀爬與折斷鐵桿(熊會爬樹)。
4.熊保護幼仔時的行為往往具有強烈攻擊性與不可預測，若看見前方有小熊且不知母熊位置，攔車通過。
5.前方有熊，若它沒注意到你，靜待其通過，若它已走近，防熊噴霧拿在手上，發出聲響並雙手舉高(讓自己看起來比它大隻)，必要時攔車支援。
最後，除非緊急，千萬別逃跑，熊與狗都有追逐的天性。 大概是這趟旅程最後一次極光了，這次沒晃了(上次的椅子不穩，我還拿手掌墊椅子腳)
4/24在廢棄的Fireside lodge
04/24 Contact creek--Abandoned Fireside lidge @Alaska highway MPH 840
04/25 Abandoned Fireside lodge--Liard river hotspring lodge @highway MPH 765
04/26 Liard river lodge--double G lodge @highway MPH 699
之後再討論我在哪裡露營。
別在路邊露營，佈滿牛大便的青草地(現在方為初春，草未綠)，看起來是不錯的露營地，但是千萬不要。
當真的看到黑熊慵懶的躺在路邊的草皮上，深深體會這個攸關生命安全的忠告。當然一定還是有想省錢的旅客隨處野營，但是後果自負。
理論上草食動物比雜食肉食動物多，在北美大陸北方，最常見的是鹿科與羊科，北美野牛(BISON)也很常見，後者也是我這趟旅程最常看見的野生動物。受驚嚇的野牛也會攻擊人，但至少牠們草食。
故事從對向車道的駕駛停車警告我說：前面有黑熊，在你的右邊草皮。我繃緊神經，不久發現黑影，我開始推車並走到對向路肩，相機拿在手上以避免因為在牠面前拿出相機而驚嚇到牠，即使拍照也不停下腳步。我們四目相望，我依照建議使出鎮定且帶點憤怒的眼神，牠則最常見的反應：好奇加上有些驚恐。
這是最好的人熊接觸的狀況：人有受到提醒，熊已經習慣來往的車輛，也沒有在保護幼仔與領地。能不能一直如此幸運，期望但不要抱太大希望。 04/26 double G service@Alaska highway MPH 699km(位於阿拉斯加公路里程699公里)--parking lot on the roadside @highway MPH 570km
04/27 parking lot--Fort Nelson @ highway MPH 454
『你騎單車來到這裡？』
『是的。』
『那住宿免費。』
這發生在4/20的Rancheria lodge，若不是天氣，我早就在這間旅館之前的廢棄屋子過夜，而這裡一晚80加幣的價格其實非常平易近人，相較之下。這間旅館是兩個距離240公里的小鎮(Teslin/Watson lake)之間唯一複合設施(旅館，餐廳，與加油站等)。有趣的是這間旅館房門是沒有鑰匙的(旅客能由房間內上鎖)，『這裡從沒丟過東西。』
而在4/25Muncho lake風景區，也是『觀賞黑熊』的最佳去處，好心的Liard hot spring hotel老闆娘讓我在庭園露營。除了免費的晚餐，她也提供幾個罐頭供我作早餐，這些味道濃烈的罐頭當然不適合在熊的領地煮食，因此我婉拒老闆娘讓我外帶罐頭的大方贈與。從Watson lake經過著名風景區Mucho lake到下一個人口破千的城鎮Fort Nelson約530公里，詭異的補給難尋且昂貴。Liard hot spring hotel餐廳在整修，雜貨店架上的食品只有四條巧克力和幾包口香糖，我得把約55公里後的Northern rockies複合設施架上除了巧克力條之外的所有食物(六片)香蕉發糕切片掃光，一片3加幣，貴得不像話。
但是，好運限定。
公路上其實有很多露營設施，只是它們多夏季限定(5月至10月初)，因此對於旅客『我可以在這裡過夜或露營嗎』要求的反應，旅客不要有太多期待。單車旅客騎在路上，只要不擋路，豎大拇指，他們停下車又不想花錢，麻煩的開始。對我來說，要花點錢沒關係，安全為重。
像contact creek lodge主人覺得困擾半推半就還是讓露營(真的沒其他地方可去)只是小意思，4/26那天，我直接被轟了出去。
這是詭異的旅館/露營地，官網『歡迎所有旅客』寫得官冕堂皇甚至可在定房網站預定，但是才晚上7點半就掛上打烊的牌子(這裡現在9點半才日落)，我還是敲門，輕拉辦公室門。
我無法確定他們的想法，也許是拉辦公室門讓他們覺得我有入侵的舉動，但這是很可怕的事，若是他們有槍呢?我當然不會隨意私闖民宅，但這是商家。
不到半個月，我似乎得回答起初『人是最危險動物』的論調，這不是說外頭全是壞人，而是就像熊一樣，雖然多數的熊不會傷人，但還是得特別小心。那天晚上我在路邊停車場露營。之前大約有提到，日間本以稀疏的車流量到晚間更顯得零零落落，且以貨車為主，因此路邊停車場過夜的最大隱憂是野生動物而不是過路司機。當然這裡最危險的熊是日行動物，且不太會闖入充滿人類氣味的停車場。既然如此，幹麼與最危險的動物打交道，頂多偶爾花錢住旅館吃餐廳當大爺。其他的夜晚，找不到指定露營地就住停車場就好了。
旅行不該有那麼負面的想法，但這似乎是最簡單的方法。我還是會到處問問，總不可能問個資訊都會被槍指吧，但是敲門求助？除了教會與公共設施，算了吧。
多谢多谢，都没心情更了……因为这个板块好冷，如果关注，欢迎关注我的公众号或者马蜂窝，帖子名      一生一次，纵贯美洲大陆的单车旅行Please read English version in the 2nd half of the article
04/30 For Nelson@Alaska highway MP 454km(位於阿拉斯加公路里程454公里)--Prophet river@highway MP 363km
05/01 Prophet river--Sasquatch lodge @ highway MP 232
又是免費住宿！我當然不會在旅館櫃檯問：我騎單車，能否給我免費房間。我會把安全帽『戴』進去(我不穿車衣褲)，並在櫃檯視線範圍脫安全帽，賓果！這發生在5月1日的Sasquatch crossing lodge，雖然僅是共用浴廁的小房間，但是我已經十分心滿意足了。而我得到的免費晚餐是正常價位的主餐附極少見的沙拉吧與自助水果盤(這裡的蔬菜大多不是夾在漢堡裡就是丟進湯裡)，在這裡根本是帝王級的餐點，其中一位經營者似乎著迷於中華文化，在這裡工作15年，晚餐後他一邊口若懸河，夾帶各種中國方言(但似乎沒有一種流利)，一邊挖冰淇淋給我。這也許是晚餐沙拉吧的湯有勾芡的原因。
來到這裡真的算是命中註定，首先我今天騎了131公里，一般不會一天騎那麼長的距離，甚至今天在最後關頭還有1公里的9%坡和5公里的6%坡。途中當然有幾個誘人的露營選擇包含一個網站寫說全年開放的露營地。
神奇住宿點不只如此，在4月30日，一個鳥不生蛋的Prophet river，這裡有約二三十戶的原住民，一個廢棄加油站，還有一間華人開的Bed and breakfast！據女主人所述，男主人喜愛打獵，打著打著就看上這個地方，至於女主人嗎…她苦笑的說：『小孩到了上學的年紀就會回溫哥華了，這裡僱人看著吧。』住這裡不是免費，但是看在他們在鳥不生蛋的地方開b and b與她為我準備四餐的份上，價格就別計較了，也不貴。
多數的單車旅客不喜歡下榻旅館，這項相對昂貴的住宿設施，尤其在美加等先進國家，我也一樣。但是我旅行的時間正好在露營場地還沒開放的時節，否則我應該會像多數的單車旅客，一整路在露營場地過夜。另外，在偏僻的阿拉斯加公路，之前介紹過，包含住宿的複合設施往往也是珍貴的補給來源，既然必須入內採買，何妨詢問住宿價錢。事實上，相較與民宅(有未經允許進入的疑慮，而這在美加可能會導致嚴重的後果)，我在這些旅館反而感受更多人情，甚至免費住宿與餐點，或是免費升級房間，更常見的是在本來需付費的露營地免費露營附贈淋浴與wifi等設施。
詳談之前，先敘述幾個我尋找住宿地點的大原則。
1.絕對不闖入私人土地，尤其是已有禁止進入的標誌(No entry, No transpassing)，或是車道以障礙物封鎖。
2.在第一點的原則上，嘗試尋找可遮風避雨的廢棄旅館，但是我會在日落時分在舖睡墊或拉營帳，並一大早離開。
3.不考量價錢，公有私人露營場地是最好的選擇，若沒有，複合設施住宿或露營優先，之後才會考量路邊停車場。
4.絕對不進入樹林裡露營，路邊的草地也盡量避免，因為野生動物帶來的風險。
若三生有幸真旅館主人讓你免費住，也要注意幾點：
1.住宿禮節，應該不必多提了。
2.旅館早晚常是不同雇員，晚餐免費，早餐不一定。
3.我還是會想辦法花點錢，例如在雜貨店消費。
一般說來，容易得到禮遇的住宿地點位於偏僻地區(單車族真的沒其他地方去)，生意興隆(少賺我這份沒差，像前文提到的Sasquatch crossing lodge當天一般房間(非我住的宿舍型)居然客滿！
我會在阿拉斯加公路的最後一篇貼文整理住宿資訊。
Another free room. Of course I don't say:”I am a cyclist and could I have a room free of charge? Instead, I wear my helmet inside(I don't wear bicycle costumes) and take off if in front of the counter. I was in Sasquatch crossing lodge in 1st May. I got a non self-contained private room, and a free dinner with salad bar. And it was really wonderful to have so many fresh vegetables. One of the owner seems to like China culture, he talked non stopped with several China dialects(doesn't seem fluently)，after dinner, and kept scooping ice cream in my bowl. And the dinner soup was thickened by flour chop.
I came to here is really meant to be. I rode 131km on the day, a long distance I don't do in most of days. Even including 1km 9% grade and 5 km 6%grade in the final section. Of course there are several tempting campground/parking lots along the way.
Other than that, I found a b and b ran by a Chinese couple in Prophet river, another desolated village, on 30th April. No more than 50 original people and abandoned gas station as the only facility. I can never expect a b and b there, and owned by a Chinese couple. I had to pay for the accommodation, but I got 4 meals , including a packed lunch and a afternoon tea snack and very warm welcome. Forget about the small fee!
Most bicycle TRAVELERs prefer not to stay in the hotel, so do I. If I come here in summer, I will stick to the campsites and no more problems. But the campsite is not open, and I have to stop at the highway facility, even just for food. So why not ask for the price for accommodation? To ask doesn't mean to stay, right? In fact, I found the owner of the facility is often friendly and helpful to cyclists, more than the locals. More often to a free room is a free campsite with shower and wifi.
The next principles are what I observed to choose a non designed campground:
1. Avoid private property, especially those stands a sign says “no Trespassing/entry etc.” or the entry car lane is blocked.
2. I think it's OK to overnight in the abandoned lodge, just make sure it's really “abandoned” and leave there earlier.
3.Designed campsites are still my first option. And camp in the facility.
4.Never camp in the woods.
And I found the facility/lodge in the middle of nowhere(cyclists have no other places to go) also has good business (it doesn't matter to give you free accommodation)is the best shot for free accommodation. But don't count on it and don't see the kindness as something granted. I think it's better to spend some money (for groceries for example) even I have a free room/meal.
I will summarize the accommodation information on my last post of Alaska highway travel.
嗯好的，不过这个要更新很久很久……现在还在墨西哥Please read English version in the 2nd half of the article
05/02 Sasquatch lodge@Alaska highway MP 232km(位於阿拉斯加公路里程232公里)--near Shepherds inn@highway MP 110km
05/03 near shepherds inn--Kiskatinaw provincial park@ highway MP 32
05/04 Kiskatinaw provincial park--Dawson creek(阿拉斯加公路起點，start point of Alaska highway
抱歉拖稿，手機開始有訊號但是找不到地方充電。
這段路程進入融雪期，沒融合完全的雪是灰泥，融化完全的變成一灘髒水還有一堆垃圾。最大的景觀大概是一位對向女乘客警告我前面有熊，她怕我聽不懂，還擺出熊臉熊爪。
而進入人口密集區後，路寬還是一樣窄，頂多多了蓋滿一堆小石子的路肩。也許是我盡量靠路邊騎，導致貨車司機可以盡情玩『摸乳巷』－他們很喜歡在我和對向車輛之間鑽過去，看來我之前稱讚駕駛人功德心的言論真的太早。
以下是我獲得免費住宿或有hostel的地點與重要城鎮住宿資訊里程：阿拉斯加
Tok MP(里程)1314 Stoves campground(hostel，季節限定)
加拿大
Haines junction MP1578 Wanderer’s inn(hostel)
Whitehorse(白馬市) MP1426 有華人開的 bed and breakfast--midnight b and b，但價格稍貴
Morley lodge(廢棄,abandoned) MP1203
Rancheria hotel(免費住宿,free accommodation) MP1100
Nugget city(設施非城鎮，MP1004,季節限定,summer only)Watson lake區域唯一廉價住宿，若真的要住Watson lake(此鎮住宿偏貴，MP980)，最便宜的是Air force lodge,the most budget hotel in Watson lake is Airforce lodge
Fireside lodge(廢棄,abandoned) MP 840
Liard river hotspring lodge MP765，極單車友善設施,cyclists friendly
Fort Nelson MP454，此鎮住宿價格合理，最便宜的sunrise inn and suites單床雙人房只要65加幣，房內有簡易廚房設施
Prophet river MP363華人友善b and b
Sasquatch crossing lodge MP232，極單車友善設施,cyclists friendly
The snow thaw rapidly. And the roadside is dominated by trash instead of the snow. It is not scenic in the last section of the highway, the most scenic is maybe a passionate female passenger warned me a bear ahead, and she posed the bear facility and claw to help me to understand!
The traffic becomes much heavier. And the truckers tend to sneeze into the tiny space of me and the vehicle on the opposite lane- I already try my best to ride on the rightmost of the road, even it's covered with bothering small rocks. It seems that I said the driver is friendly to cyclists is not the total truth.
多谢多谢 多谢多谢05/05 Dawson creek, start point of Alaska highway(阿拉斯加公路起點)--Wembley 110km
05/06 Wembley--Grande Prairie(大草原城)--Kakwa recreation area 113km
05/07 Kakwa--Grande cache 92km
騎這段路前，請到各大城市索取免費資訊，包含宿營地等。
歡迎來到加拿大的新竹，Alberta, always windy.(亞伯達省總是風大。北美焚風小有名氣，網路有更多資料。
離開陪伴我近一個月的阿拉斯加公路，接下來的方向是往加拿大的兩個國家公園--賈斯柏與班夫(Jasper and Banff)而從大草原城到欣頓(Hinton，進入國家公園前的北方大鎮)，這段大約300公里的40號公路，集合了所有單車族的惡夢元素。
包含了強風、短距離的連續極陡升降坡、缺乏補給(僅半路的Grande cache)、極窄甚至缺乏路肩，還有一堆貨車等。五月六日當天看到的貨車數量大概和我在育空半個月看到的還多，一點都不誇張。在cutbank river過橋之後的陡升坡我得牽車前進，不是因為坡太陡，而是雙向貨車不斷交會根本不留空間給我，因此我得到路旁的草皮邊牽車邊乖乖玩沙。貨車司機多禮遇單車族，但是擋路的單車族，就像我之前提的，他們會使出高超的『穿越摸乳巷』特技。算了，我還是乖乖玩沙吧。
到了相對溫暖的南部，人們不用再奮力求生，戶外運動也相對盛行，這也許是這段路停下與我拍照的人馬變多的原因之一。有一位女駕駛把我的照片放在社區的網頁，然後隔日有另一位駕駛停車根我說：我看到你的照片，三明治給你，吃吧。也許是藍色外套加上一堆塑膠袋五花大綁實在太顯眼。另外一組在接近預定營地停車的人馬，後來則到營地教我加拿大喝罐裝啤酒的方法--接近罐底挖一個小洞，小洞對嘴並拉開瓶口，讓空氣壓力把啤酒瞬間『推』入喉嚨，並好心的想給我一堆空酒鐵罐換錢(10個1元)，我婉拒(個人喜愛輕量化旅行)並說：我覺得最好的賺錢方法是不要亂花錢。希望他們沒喝酒駕車。
進入國家公園就是標準的旅遊路線，希望健行步道上的冰雪已幾乎融化。
Alberta, always windy. A local told me. Whether it's exaggerating, it seems from Grande Prairie to Grande cache, highway No. 40, is one of the nightmare for a cyclist.
Combination of strong winds, continuous steep grades in short distance, the shoulder is narrow or even absent, and numerous trucks, makes this section of cycle tour the most difficult part in Canada to me. I think that the number of trucks passed by me on 5th May is more than the number in the half month of my journey in Yukon. I even have to walk the bicycle on the steep uphill beyond the Cutbank bridge. I walked on the grassy field outside the road because there's no room for me--trucks continuing to pass on the lanes of dual direction and I found no room for one more bicycle. Most truckers are carefully to pass through cyclists, but it's still scary to see a truck passes just in few inches.
A lot of roaring vehicle, but also some stopped for me. A driver took a picture and then posted, and another driver stopped by and gave me a sandwich because he saw the picture on line. And another two guys who stopped by on the roadside visited me in the Kakwa recreation area and taught me how to drink in Canada(they claimed)--he first opened the small hole near the bottom of the beer can, suck the beer from the small hole and then pull it open. Let the air pressure push the beer and goes through the throat. I am not a beer fan but also not deny it. Just wish the driver didn't drink. They also wanted to give me the cans for bottle deposit money. I didn't take them because I would like to travel light and the best way to earn money is to spend it carefully.
Time to go to the national parks. I really hope the most daily hiking trails are accessible.
Rhino二人帳 台灣國產的 大約4000新台幣，比較合用，推薦
謝謝支援……Please read English version in the 2nd half of the article
5/10 Hinton--Jasper(賈斯柏) 70km, Pyramid lake and Patricia lake
5/11 In Jasper, visit Edith Cabell road, Beauvert lake, Edith lake, Maligne canyon(峽谷)
5/12 跟團去Maligne canyon, medicine lake
進入國家公園，當個正常的遊客吧。
怪事繼續發生，這裡先不談。美加國家公園的所有活動資訊透明，不像台灣健行的第一步驟是找地圖和紀錄，在這裡，官方網站就包括所有必要資訊，不論水上陸上，冬季夏季，各大城鎮的旅遊中心也是重要資訊來源。舉例來說，目前為初夏時節，要融不融的冰雪隱含雪崩危險(不一定是大規模的災難，開車開到一半忽然兩三公斤的積雪從山坡砸下來也算是雪崩)，國家公園網站就詳列所有健行步道的積雪情形與雪崩風險。
而連結Jasper與Banff國家公園的Icefield parkway享負盛名，加拿大政府甚至計畫在該公路旁建造自行車道。我由西北向東南騎，首先抵達的是Jasper，這個城鎮的必遊景點包含城鎮周圍的眾湖泊(請參閱相片)，Maligne峽谷，與Edith Cavell(山岳名，大眾化的健行步道分兩段，第一段到冰河與山岳展望點，第二段至七月才開放，通往山腳與苔原景觀)，而通往步道入口的公路到五月下旬才會開放給機動車輛使用，但是自行車與健行滑雪等不受限制。
加拿大境內有許多機動車輛季節性開放但是自行車不受限制的道路，在初夏雪融時期但未對機動車輛開放之際，成為自行車的天堂。但是今年加拿大落磯山區雪況特別好，好到全球暖化真的像在說謊，使得例如最高海拔不到1900公尺的Edith Cavell公路上仍有許多積雪(日間溫度已達5-10℃)。
由主要公路岔路口開始，到步道口，Edith Cavell約14公里，平均坡度約4%，前4公里的髮夾彎路段稍陡，後段較緩，難易適中。第12公里處有原始的木屋(rustic hostel)供旅客過夜。因為積雪，我只能到12公里處的木屋，沿路的植被以含山毛櫸的針葉林為主。
我之後還有一段未對機動車輛開放的『單車天堂』，希望順利，積雪快融。
Strange people on the road, also in the town. Let me forget them and only see the friendly people when I am in Jasper and Banff n.p., where I should behave in a way of common tourists. Back to my home country, we have to find the information from someone wrote about the trail status before hiking(the reSources from n.p. website is scarce), but the website of Canada n.p. specifies every information the common tourists need. So it should be easy to do hiking here, and a lot of the trails should accessible in mid May. Unfortunately, the snow accumulation in northern Rockies is much more than usual. I can't do every day easy hiking as I plan.
Icefield parkway, which connects Jasper and Banff national parks is one of the most famous highway for cyclists, and the Government of Canada plans to construct a paved cycle route along the highway. Other than the lakes besides town Jasper(Edith lake, Patricia lake, and Pyramid lake, etc.), and the guided Maligne canyon tour, I went to Edith Cavell road on 11th,May. The road ends at the trailhead of Cavell meadows, which is a famous trail in Jasper n.p. for watching glaciers and meadows and overlook My. Edith Cavell. There are several roads open seasonally for motorized vehicles but open year round for hikers and cyclists,Edith Cavell road is one of them. When snow leaves the road in late spring and the road is not open for motorized vehicles, the roads becomes the paradise for cyclists. Edith Cavell should be a paradise for me in mid May, but just I said one the previous paragraph, the high snow accumulation last winter makes this route still inaccessible on its final few kilometers. 14km in total, I could only made to milepost 12 km where a rustic hostel stands.
I have another cycling plan on the “cyclists paradise road”--the highest paved pass--the highwood pass in Kananaski county. I hope it will work out. Please read English version in the 2nd half of the article
5 /12 跟團去Maligne(重音在第二音節，g,e不發音)峽谷與湖泊，guided tour to Malygne canyon and lake
目前為止，美加生活有兩點有趣之處：
哪裡都可以用信用卡，即使是阿拉斯加公路上的偏僻設施，但是無線網路並非隨處可及。(麥當勞等連鎖速食店與加拿大最大的咖啡連鎖店Tim Honton等有免費無線網路，但它們只存在大城鎮。)
加拿大境內離開大城鎮常沒有手機訊號，尤其是北部人煙稀少的地區，一開始我以為是我手機sim卡問題(美國電信公司但是我購買可在加拿大與墨西哥漫遊的方案)，但是當地人跟我說：不用重辦一張加拿大專用sim卡，因為出了城鎮誰都沒訊號。
偶爾跟團旅遊可以得到很多知識，而這類散客團則免去議價的困擾。
舉例而言，熊最大的敵人是寒冬，而它們不像某些動物在冬眠時會進入濱死狀態(呼吸心跳等生命徵相降到最低)，熊只是『一直在睡』。因此它們冬眠時仍需要許多能量，這也是它們在夏季時最重要的工作之一－儲存能量。時間有限下，它們並不偏好
獵食，而是盡可能攝取隨手可得的食物來源。以北美黑熊棕熊而言，這類食物來源指的是漿果或鮭魚，而北極熊的是海豹，因此北美黑熊棕熊對人類不造成嚴重危險，但是進入北極熊領地則是人人攜帶獵槍，因為北極熊以肉食為主。
另外，有一種甲蟲會在松樹內繁殖並造成松樹死亡(照片中紅色松針的松樹)。而寒冷與森林大火則是這類甲蟲的自然天敵。但在全球暖化與人類抑制森林大火下，甲蟲的過度繁殖造成嚴重問題。
單車旅遊，跟團似乎多餘。但是我並不介意這筆額外支出，更何況加拿大國家公園管理處很注重旅遊品質，沒有三兩三，別想對外招客。
Something is quite new to me when living in Canada and USA.
First, credit card is widely accepted even in the middle of nowhere on the Alaska highway. But mobile signal is another story. I thought that I misunderstood something with my Roger roaming program when I found it didn't work in Yukon. But the locals told me not to buy a Canada mobile sim card package because no one is able to get any signal outside the town.
Back to today's story. I bought a guided tour which seems unnecessary to a bicycle travel. But I don't mind to spend the extra fees because I can learn more on the road and rest a bit more. And the quality is guaranteed in norh America n.p.. For example, the bear prefers to get whatever food he can get instead of hunt for it, just like human do. So the black and grizzly bear consumes most plants and don't see human as the food resources. But polar bear habitats in the place of plants scarce and Seals are there most food resources. So we could just use the bear spray as protection but people who live in the habitats of polar bear need the rifle. Also how the nature forest fire does goog for the ecosystem. So many of classes I learned.
I travel in budget but not in poverty. Pay for something I really need but not to pay for luxury. That's the simplest way to cut the budget.
Please read the English version in the 2nd half of the article.
遇雨，多停留Jasper一天。原先預定的住宿(rustic hostel)無法退款，但是青年旅館(Jasper downtown hostel)可憐我給我折扣…。我當然知道單車旅行行程的不確定性，但是預定rustic hostel是必要的，否則進不去，以下解釋。
上篇介紹到連結賈斯柏(Jasper)和班夫(Banff)國家公園的icefield parkway，這條公路上的補給十分有限，但是住宿設施分布十分廣泛，包含露營場地、一般旅館與青年旅館，度假村，還有類似台灣山區避難山屋的rustic hostel(無水電，但是有煤氣供煮食)，理論上除非熱門時節(如五月長週末假期)，並不會有沒地方住的問題。
但是目前初夏許多露營場地未開放，我唯一的住宿選擇只剩下只存在這條路上三大城鎮(Jasper, lake Louise, Banff)的青年旅館(hostel)還有rustic hostel，而最大的問題是這些上鎖的rustic hostel無人看守，想進去得先取得密碼。預定完成後，透過e mail回寄簽名的切結書(住宿者需自備食物飲水與保暖裝備)，確定從信用卡收到住宿款項後(一晚一人約28加幣)，他們會以e mail告知門鎖密碼。
但是這代表住宿者不能突然出現在rustic hostel門口並要求入住，事先預定變成必須程序。而且別忘記在這種偏僻地方手機不太可能有訊號。像今天(5/13)我因雨多停留在Jasper一天，代表原先預定的rustic hostel必須延後，且無法退款(超過48小時前取消的期限)。
事實上，以單車旅行而言，由Jasper至lake Louise兩大城鎮之間(距離207公里)的rustic hostel名稱與距離如下，以價格來說，是絕佳的停留點。但在無人看守的時期，入住其中變成有點麻煩。
Hi beauty creek hostel 距離Jasper78公里
Columbia icefield center(著名冰河觀賞中心，有餐廳與付費設施前往觀賞冰河(全地形車)與天空步道，季節限定，目前已開放。
Hi Hilda hostel 距離Jasper100公里，著名短程健行路線Parker ridge起點
以下可由booking.com預定
Hi rampart hostel 距離Jasper124公里
Hi mosquito creek hostel 距離Jasper183公里
I stayed in Jasper one more day because of rain. It shouldn't be a problem but the rustic hostel I reserved is beyond the 48 hours free canceling period. The hostel owner I stay in Jasper(Jasper downtown hostel) heard the bad news and gave me discount for the unexpected delay. I know the uncertainty of bicycle travel but I have to book the rustic hostel or I can't go inside, which is explained in next paragraphs.
The icefield parkway, which connects Jasper and Banff n.p., has very limited facilities for groceries and bASIc supply. But there are numerous choices of accommodation on this road. There shouldn't be any problems of accommodation other than traveling in holidays. The rustic hostel, which supplies no water and electricity(but have gas for catering) is one of them.
For the season when most campground is still closed, the rustic hostel is my only option to overnight on the parkway. I don't think it's a good idea to camp on the parking lot on the roadside in the n.p.. But some of the rustic hostels are also unstaffed for the season, I have to reserve in advance to obtain the key code to enter them. That's why I booked them in spite of of the uncertainty of bicycle travel. I can't just show up and say” hi, I want to stay here" because the hostel is unstaffed. And don't forget there's hardly any mobile signal in the middle of nowhere, or near the rustic hostel.
The perfect distance between two hostels and reasonable price(about 28 dollar per capita per night) makes them perfect place for cyclists to stay overnight in summertime. But beyond the tourism season, the reservation process to obtain the key code makes it a bit tricky. The next are the distance of rustic hostels from Jasper.
Hi beauty creek hostel 78km
Columbia icefield center(tourism facility, restaurant and package tour to Columbia icefield and skywalk by all terrains.(operation seasonally.)
Hi Hilda hostel Jasper100km, trailhead of famous dayhike Parker ridge
Hi rampart hostel Jasper124km
Hi mosquito creek hostel Jasper183km
Rampart and mosquito creek rustic hostels could be reserved on booking.com.
05/14 Jasper--hi beauty creek hostel 85km
05/15 hi beauty creek hostel--Columbia icefield center--hi rampart hostel 57km
05/16 hi rampart hostel--hi mosquito creek hostel 64km
共206km
除了騎車，我幾乎走了所有必訪景點，包含哥倫比亞冰川全地形車(icefield adventure)與天空步道(Skywalke)(事先購買套票，套票內容還包含班夫(Banff)鎮纜車與班夫附近的湖泊Minnewanka遊輪(cruise)，價格約180加幣，昂貴但是難得經驗，就不計較經費了。而沿路看到兩次黑熊，但是在看到它們前總是先看到大排長龍的車陣，安全大增。
健行時的單車擺放，如何預防失竊
這是最困擾我的問題，答案無解。rustic hostel主人說在國家公園鳥不生蛋的地方偷竊少見，但是野生動物『攻擊』單車族的行李時有所聞，我就親眼看到烏鴉攻擊我放空水瓶的塑膠袋，裡面並沒有食物！我健行時只是把單車鎖在固定物上，貴重物品和難以購得的工具帶走，剩下的行李綁在車上，幸運的尚未有失竊問題。有個方法我還沒試過，請求把行李放在旅客的車內，單車一樣綁在固定物上，或是嘗試把行李放在rustic hostel或旅館內(如著名的Parker ridge步道位於gi hilda hostel旁邊)，但是有些hostel在非check-in和check-out時間是無人看守且上鎖的。
時間
最繁忙的時間約從六月下旬到九月上旬，這段約3個月的時間幾乎所有健行步道已完全融雪或僅有少數殘雪，幾乎所有旅遊設施都可及。若是你不那麼在乎健行，主要目的是單車旅遊，那麼五月中下旬與九月下旬十月上旬等離峰時段(不包含五月長週末假期)可以避免人潮，當然有些設施仍未開放，得事先查詢。
住
除了旅館與露營地，公路上有許多rustic hostel供旅客利用，名額有限(每間約僅能容納15-20人，尖峰時段得事先預定)，有水源，有限的電力與網路，無淋浴設施(乾式廁所)，有煤氣供煮食與暖氣，也有床單等，一晚約32加幣(非WH會員)。上篇已詳述各rustic hostel位置名稱，這裡不再重複。
食
Jasper到lake Louise之間並無所謂的『超級市場』，但是路上的餐廳，有些供應自助餐(BUFFet,約30加幣)，算是相對價格合理的選擇，如 Columbia icefield center與Saskatchewan crossing的午餐，這也是團體旅遊的用餐地點，所以用餐之前請先確定不在意吵雜環境。這些旅遊設施也有基本的食物乾糧，但是價格偏高。
I almost stopped all the seesights on the road, and also bought the combo tour--icefield adventure(the all terrains take the tourists to the Columbia icefield), skywalk near Columbia icefield center, Banff gondola and Minnewanka lake cruise. The combo ticket is quite expensive(about 180 dollars), but once a life experience so just forget about the price and did it.
How to avoid the bicycle and bags be stolen when hiking?
It's an unanswered question. The rustic hostel owner told me that compares to theft, wildlife “attacks” bicycle bag is much often. I saw a raven attacked one of my plastic bag, which is only empty bottles inside. I locked up the bicycle with fixed objects, only took valuables and tools which hard to find with me. You could like to try ask the tourist to put the bags into their vehicle trucks or in the facility/hostel. Just remember the rustic hostel is unstaffed in some season and out of check-in and check-out time.
Time to go
The shoulder search(mid-May to mid June except the long weekend and mid September to early October) might be best time to cycle. You could expect less traffic. But the facility/ hiking trail access are also limited.
Accommodation
Other than logging and campgrounds, the rustic hostels may be the best alternatives. Tourists should reserve in peak season because of limited capacity(about 15-20people). The rustic hostels supply gas for cooking and heating, and also bedding. Limited water/electricity/wifi facility. Dry toilet and no shower available.
Food
There's no supermarket between Jasper and lake Louise. But you could find some pricey food supply in the facility. And there are some buffet in the facility, lunch in icefield center and Saskatchewan crossing for example. These are also the place for group tourists. Food is ok there but don't expect a cozy atmosphere.
5/18露易斯湖(lake Louise)--班夫鎮(Banff)，56km，弓河谷國家公園公路(bow valley parkway)與自行車道(bow valley legacy trail)
與Johnson canyon步道
5/19 硫磺山纜車步道(Sulphur mountain trail)
弓河谷公園公路平行於泛加拿大公路(trans Canada highway)但速限低且禁止大型車輛進入，因此路上幾乎只有觀光客車輛，而他們多小心行駛(在國外違規不是開玩笑的)，看似為理想的單車騎乘公路。
但是，這條公路與兩側的森林之間並不像其他公路，有『防火巷』的設計(把道路周圍的樹砍掉，看起來就像之前的照片－公路與森林有草皮間隔，單車騎士視線受限，與熊不期而遇機率大增。幸好沿路沒看見半隻熊，或是熊沒看見我。
此外，在著名的Johnson canyon步道口有資訊服務站，但是對於寄放單車與行李的要求似乎有些為難，看來為了健行，租車勢在必行。
此外，這兩天走了兩個步道，簡述而下，並請參考以下網站：
https://www.pc.gc.ca/en/pn-np/ab/banff/activ/randonee-hiking
1.Johnson canyon：到上層瀑布單程2.4公里，全程水泥步道，十分平易近人，是班夫國家公園最熱門的步道之一。雖然Johnson canyon不像Maligne canyon深壑，但是沿路大小不一的瀑布也是別有特色。
2.硫磺山纜車步道(Sulphur mountain)：這並非我的口袋名單，但是青年旅館臨時把每日活動改成這條，只好將就。到山頂纜車站5.5公里是一路坡度稍陡但均勻的髮夾灣土路，多處仍有結冰。山頂纜車站到Samson峰頂瞭望站0.5公里，是鋪設良好的目階步道。這是當地居民運動強身的熱門步道，但是沿路風景乏善可陳。山頂纜車站與Sanson 峰頂有良好視野，但是搭乘纜車即可抵達，不必大費周章。或是可以健行上登，搭纜車下山。
Parallels to the trans-Canada highway, Bow valley parkway, inaccessible to trucks and tour buses and with lower speed limit, is the tourists and cyclists an excellent alternative road from lake Louise to town Banff. And the tourists usually stick to the traffic regulations, since they are driving in a place they aren't familiar with.
But there is still a disadvantage to cyclists. The fire access road on main road/highway doesn't exist on bow valley parkway. So cyclists have obstructed view and have a very good chance to contact the bear unexpectedly.
There is an information station on the trailhead of Johnson canyon. But the staff there seemed to not reluctant to keep an eye on my bicycle and belongings. It seems that I have to rent a car if I really like to do some long distance day hiking.
The next two trails are what I hiked in the two days. And there is more information on the website of:
https://www.pc.gc.ca/en/pn-np/ab/banff/activ/randonee-hiking
1Johnson canyon: one of the most popular trails in Bow valley area. The 2.4km one way paved road go through Johnson canyon and several waterfalls, including two of the most spectacular waterfalls-lower and upper waterfalls. Although not a deep canyon as Maligne, it's still scenic and, most important, it's an easy family hike.
2. Sulphur mountain: 5.5km to the peak gondola station, and another 0.5 to the Samson peak. It's not my plan, but the day activity of the hostel replaced to it. Several switch back with about10% steady grade, it's a good place for high strength sport, but the view is almost obstructed. The best view is near the peak gondola station and Samson peak, which is accessible by the tram. So...it's worth to hike the trail? Depends on what you need, or you could hike up, and take the gondola down. The trail from peak gondola station to Samson peak is well maintained wood stairs, but the trailhead to the peak gondola station is dirt trail with icy section in the season.
Please read the English version in the second half of this article.
05/20 班夫(Banff)--坎莫爾(Canmore) 25km，弓河遺產自行車道(Bow legacy trail)，平行於泛加拿大高速公路(trans Canada highway)
這週末是美加長週末，包含週一維多利亞日至少有3日假期，這也是夏季的開始，所有旅遊景點人滿為患，班夫鎮的麥當勞被塞爆，加拿大的麥當勞不像台灣的硬把小麥克說成大麥克，而同樣的漢堡套餐在一般簡易餐廳價格大約是麥當勞的1倍半，還得另外支付至少15%的服務費，再加上麥當勞有免費wifi，自然大受歡迎。另外，我的其中ㄧ張信用卡在21日被停用，用Skype打免費客服原因竟然是『這幾天使用太頻繁，有盜用嫌疑』，這真的非常誇張，首先，從交易紀錄可知我在美加地區，是使用信用卡的天下，而每筆交易都是小額交易，又不是天天買保時捷，還好我在網路普及的觀光地區，否則我相信信用卡銀行的損失比我的還大。最後有解決恢復使用就好。
在美加國家公園的步道多是多用途的，包含冬季滑雪與雪鞋健行，夏季自行車、騎馬、搭馬車、滑板車，與健行等。步道口有告示步道的用途，例如可不可以騎自行車等，務必遵守。此外，步道的難易程度也是需要注意的，例如不是所有的自行車道都有舖柏油或為平整土石步道，這裡許多自行車道為『登山自行車道』，不適合一般自行車。美加社會風氣開放，並不會刻意限制特定戶外活動，與台灣大不相同。
這天除了騎自行車，另外走了兩個短程步道，與參觀必遊景點洞穴與盆地國家歷史古蹟(cave and basin national historic site,曾是著名露天溫泉勝地，後來因為保育溫泉水域特殊生態而停止)，簡述如下：
1.Sundance canyon: 稍微冷門的步道，ㄧ方面距離較長，包含單程3.3公里柏油多功能步道(包含騎馬與自行車)與穿越峽谷的1.2公里環型步道(夏季僅供步行)，也就是全程步行的總距離是7.8公里。另一方面景觀與步道維護不如著名的Johnson canyon水泥步道。步道口在必遊景點洞穴古蹟旁邊，有時間不妨ㄧ遊。若順時鐘方向步行環型步道，首先幾段階梯步道穿越峽谷，更明確的說，是陡峭湍急的溪谷地形，不要忘記回頭瞭望山景，後半段步道轉入森林並返回步道口。
2.grassy lake upper:坎莫爾(Canmore)鎮著名的景點，適合全家共遊，也是熱門的登山車步道。通往翠綠的grassy lake有兩條步道，這裡所述是較容易單程1.9公里的步道。湖泊旁邊也提供眺望坎莫爾鎮的絕佳視野。
This weekend is May long, Banff is stuffed with tourists, and McDonald is one of the most popular dining stand. It's cheap, no service fee, free wifi, so many advantage, no wonder McDonald is the king of fastfood. One of my credit card was declined on 21the May. I skyped the customer service and was told that”this card is used too often and suspected to being theft. That's ridiculous. First, the bank is aware that I am in Canada and credit card is used every single transaction. Second, the payment is always in small amount and not used to buy luxuries. I got my well-function credit card back after a whole day in anxiety.
The trail in national park is usually multi-functioned as you know, but it is definitely not common in Taiwan, where some outdoor activities are not encouraged. Like gay marriage, maybe people could accept it just not my children.
Other than cycle from Banff to Canmore on Bow valley legacy trail, I visited cave and basin national historic site and also two short hiking which is briefly described in the next and you could find more information on the website.
1. Sundance canyon: less popular to tourists because the longer distance. From the trailhead near cave and basin national historic site, hikers have to walk on the multi-functioned paved trail which is 3.3 km in distance, and another 1.2 dirt loop trail which goes up and through the canyon. This “canyon” is more like a swift river instead a magnificent canyon. But still a good hiking.
2 grassy lakene of the most popular trail near Canmore, and also a family-suited trail If you choose the easy one(there are two trails to grassy lake). 1.9 km well-maintained trail with steadily grade leads hikers to two dark green lakes and great viewpoint of town Canmore.
5/22 班夫鎮，Tunnel mountain與Hoodoos trail
5/23 單車由坎莫爾(Canmore)騎回班夫(Banff)，Cascade valley trail(Cascade河谷步道)
5/24 氣溫高達20℃的好天氣中午結束，下雪了@@
感謝家人把本國駕照寄來(記得租車不只要國際駕照也要本國駕照喔)，明後天開車前往Kananaskis與附近的步道。
上週末是美加地區的長週末，週一維多利亞日包含在內至少有3天假期，班夫鎮旅館露營場地幾乎間間客滿，我只好到距離約25公里的坎莫爾住。那是坎莫爾唯一一間也是我待過最詭異的hostel之一。待我走遠在booking.com寫評論。
週末走的步道都在班夫鎮內或是免費Minewanka lake接駁公車路線上，簡述如下：
1.Hoodoos trail：這條步道由班夫鎮的surprise corner出發，平緩的3.1公里沿溪步道接回公路之後，再1.1公里抵達眺望Hoodoos山岳的最後展望站。這是班夫鎮最熱門的步道，半數以上的步道位於林蔭之中，步道平緩路況良好，多處可眺望弓河河谷，也有部分步道在水勢和緩的弓河河岸。步道為來回同路設計，但事實上可自行安排接駁(步道兩端都為公路)甚至搭乘Tunnel mountain公車回程。該公車站不好找，務必事前確認，以免像我一樣，尋不著公車站結果花了近2小時走回班夫鎮中心，直接循原步道回程並不需要那麼長的時間。
2.Tunnel mountain：另一個由班夫中心可步行抵達的步道。單程2.4公里落差約260公尺的之字步道，帶領旅客抵達擁有眺望班夫鎮良好視野的Tunnel mountain山頂，標高1690公尺。
3.Cascade valley(Cascade河谷步道)：單日行程約於Cascade bridge返程，單程6.4公里。這是許多過夜健行步道的開端，也是非常受歡迎的冬季滑雪，夏季騎馬自行車步道。看到冬季滑雪，我就應該聯想到路況：寬闊且無林蔭。這條步道不是那麼熱門，我想主要原因是它缺乏視野與景致，且一路平緩沒有太多起伏。但是接駁交通便利，步道口位於Minewanka lake公路上的upper bankhead，可由lower bankhead下公車之後往lake Minewanto方向走約300公尺即可抵達。
Thank my family sent the domestic driver license, which I forgot to bring and thought the international driver license is enough for car rental. I will go to Kananaskis village for the coming two days for hiking by renting a car.
I couldn't find a budget place/campground to stay in May long so I had to overnight in the only hostel in Canmore, one of the most bizarre hostels and I will comment on booking.com when I far away from Canmore.
Without the car, I could only hike in the trail near Banff and along the bus routes. Described as the next:
1.Hoodoos trail: one of the most accessible trail near Banff. Hikers could just started from downtown Banff. Trailhead is by the surprise corner parking lot, 3.1km almost flat and good maintained trail along Bow river and through forest, with several viewpoints and chances to access the riverbank. And another 1.1km trail aside to the paved road which ends in Mt Hoodoos viewpoint. Tunnel mountain shuttle bus provides transportation if you don't want to do out and back hiking. But be sure to understand where the bus stop is or you might have to spend near 2 hours to walk back downtown like me.
2. Tunnel mountain: Another popular trail which hikers could start off in Banff downtown. 2.4km one way with 260 meters gaining, several switch back lead to the top of Tunnel mountain with a wonderful view of Banff.
3. Cascade valley: A formerly fire access road and popular for almost all the winter and summer activities. Hiking from upper bankhead parking lot(on the Minewanka road) to Cascade bridge, the first opportunity for hikers to access the riverside, is 6.4 km. Most hikers choose to go back at Cascade bridge although the trail goes much further. It's not a very scenic trail but one of the trails which is accessible by the shuttle bus near Banff.

不錯不錯，沿途更多綺麗風光難以圖片展示Please read the English version in the second half of this article.
除了防熊噴霧，我還買了一個熊鈴鐺，這個鈴鐺有神奇作用，若真的被熊怎樣，搖這個鈴鐺，不用7天，3天就會回家…
有關熊的問題，我會再說明
5/25 Grotto creek(Grotto小溪)單程2.1公里，海拔落差小，往返步道(2.1km one way,out and back trail,little elevation gained
Ribbon falls(Ribbon瀑布)，單程8.1公里，海拔落差約350公尺，往返步道(8.1km one way, out and back trail, elevation gained about 350m
5/26 草原眺望/Jewell pass環型，約15公里，海拔落差約550公尺(Prairie views/Jewell pass loop, about 15km, elevation gained about 550m)
在Peter Lougheed省立公園又見熊，這次是在我沒有防備的狀況下(只是下車前往約300公尺的lower lake)。不到100公尺的距離，我盡量不引起注意的繞道而行。
今日與昨日租車走了三個步道，包含Grotto canyon(峽谷)，Ribbon falls(瀑布)，Jewell pass/草原眺望(Prairie views)環型。細節之後說明。
穿越景觀優美與加拿大柏油公路最高點highwood pass的公路40(highway 40)積雪仍深，我一直在尋找除了穿越繁忙城市卡加利(Calgary)之外的替代道路，最後被我找到了！庫特尼(Kootenay)國家公園，將是下個目的地。
這兩天健行的步道分布在弓河谷(Bow valley)與Kananaskis公路上(之前提到的公路40號)。或是說他們分布在大城卡加利(Calgary)與班夫國家公園之間，是當地民眾非常喜愛的步道，但是外來觀光客多把焦點放在國家公園內，這些交通便利全家適宜的步道就被遺忘了。簡述如下：
Grotto小溪：步道口位於坎莫爾(Canmore)與40號公路與岔路口之間，在Google maps輸入Grotto canyon可找到。步道分為兩段，前1公里平行於公路繞過提煉製造氧化鎂的Baymag工廠後方，後半步道行走於狹窄的峽谷溪床之中，步道終點的右側是Grotto瀑布，再往前是冰攀練習地與倏然開闊的溪谷。目前初夏時節水量不足(因為高山地區冰雪未全融)，瀑布僅有涓涓細流，多次跨越溪床也不成問題(不用脫鞋)，但是盛夏時務必注意水量與天氣狀況，勿勉強而行。
Ribbon瀑布：另一個沿溪床而行，終點為瀑布的步道，不同的是這條步道幾乎不直接走在溪床之上。步道口位於Ribbon creek parking lot，前半段為多功能步道，在單車行車終點設有停車架。後半段因為生態保育僅可步行。這條步道曾被洪水沖毀，目前仍有少數舊步道的遺跡。步道終點是壯觀的Ribbon瀑布與露營地，再往前2公里可至Ribbon湖，但是需一定攀岩或冰攀裝備。8.1公里單程看似漫長，但是步道狀況良好且平緩，往返時間不含長休息，約7至8小時綽綽有餘。
草原眺望/Jewell pass環型：步道口位於Barrier湖/水壩休閒使用區旁(Barrier dam day use)，這條步道高點可以眺望整個以卡加利為中心的亞伯塔草原區，與Kananaskis county的河谷與山稜，而最高點是工作站，工作包含森林大火監測等。加拿大依據地形氣候有草原三省之說，亞伯塔即為其中一省，而草原氣候地區為該省人口密集區。這片草原大致在落磯山脈東麓，往北進入北極圈為苔原，往南成為北美大平原的一部分，進入副熱帶輻合區後成為沙漠氣候。
建議以順時針方向健行。先沿Barrier水壩健行至Jewell pass步道口，接下來順著Jewell pass步道迂迴沿溪上稜接到草原眺望步道(由Jewell pass步道口接到草原眺望2.7公里)，約1.5公里的陡上坡後，抵達視野開闊的觀景平臺，這裡有岔路往上段提到的工作站，單程約1公里，沿路也有許多展望點，而沿草原眺望下行回Barrier水壩的步道寬闊，但是因為使用著多，在大雨過後多有爛泥，這段約3.5公里的下行路由共11個之字陡坡組成，相較於Jewell pass沒有太多特色，加上Jewell pass的坡度相對和緩，因此以Jewell pass上行較為適當。
Bear counts 4! This time I just dropped off for the lower lakebank in Peter Lougheed provincial park, which is no more than 300 meters from the car, and didn't bring bear spay with me. The bear was no more than 100 meters from me, quite scary! I walked by it carefully and it seems that the bear was not interested in me. What a relief!
I rent a car and went to three long day hiking in today and yesterday. They are Grotto canyon, Ribbon falls, Jewell pass/Prairie views loop. Details described later.
The snow conditions on the Alberta highway 40( Kananaskis trail), which goes through scenic Kananaskis county and the highest point of paved road in Canada, is still inaccessible to bicycles. I was looking for the alternative route--not go through busy Calgary, either. I finally find another scenic route--Kootenay N.P., which will be my next destination.
I hiked 3 popular trails in the two days. The trails are located in Bow valley or near Kananaskis village, between Calgary and Banff national park. Tourists tend to spend the energy in the N.P. and these trails are usually skipped in their itinerary. Briefly described as the next:
Grotto creek: The trailhead is located between Canmore and the junction of Trans Canada highway and highway 40(Kananaskis trail), which can also found by searching “Grotto canyon” on Google maps. The first half of this 2.1 km trail parallels to the highway and bypasses Baymag industry， which refines magnetism and produces magnetism oxide in main. The second half of this trail is scenic and hikers directly walk in the canyon and trace the creek to the falls. The falls is the end of the trail and also a popular location for ice climbing. Further up is an open valley and piling stones to remind the hiker to head back.
Grotto falls: Another trail along the creek and terminates at Ribbon falls and a Backcountry campground. But this trail, which in fact a beginning of other trails(including Ribbon lake which rock climbing technique is required) is much longer than Grotto creek(about 8 km). Fortunately hikers don't walk directly on the creek band, walk alongside the creek instead, and takes hikers about 7 to 8 hours for the round trip. And the falls is more magnificent than the Grotto falls. Only first half section of this trail is open to cyclists.
Loop of Jewell pass and prairie view: Trailhead is in the Barrier dam day use area near Kananaskis village, famous for its amazing view of Calgary area and Kananaskis valley. The viewpoint of the loop trail is a junction to the hilltop (about 1 km from the junction), where a staff-only station locates, which one of the major duty is to monitor forest fire. Hikers are suggested to take clockwise direction, or to ascend on Jewell pass trail, which has gentler grade and better scenery alongside a lovely creek. The 5 km long prairie view trail, made of 11 switches back, is more used and much eroded, is a faster way to decent and to the lovely home.
5/27 Banff--Vermilion crossing 約70公里，穿越庫特尼國家公園
如同之前提到的，我只從事短程步行，不把單車與行李鎖在停車場太久。庫特尼是狹長的國家公園，公路在庫特尼國家公園內約80公里，而由弓河谷公園公路(Bow valley parkway)岔路口castle canyon(海拔約1500)到庫特尼國家公園南端的鐳溫泉(Radium hot springs,海拔約800)105公里，需翻越兩個隘口－Vermilion pass海拔1640與Sinclair pass海拔1486。單車行程分為兩日綽綽有餘。主要景點請參閱照片。
這裡繼續討論『防熊』，大家都知道不要跑給熊追(除非牠已經把你當獵物)，一方面跑不贏牠，另一方面逃跑代表害怕。但是國家公園偶爾有單車族被熊追的案例，像狗追單車，不是單車騎給狗追，而是狗不知從哪裡冒出來。躲在樹林中的熊並不易察覺，單車騎過去或健行走過去可能會驚嚇到牠，或是被誤會為逃跑行為，這些都可能導致攻擊。
製造聲響是告知熊『有人靠近』的最簡單方法，大聲放音樂則是其中最有效的方式，但是需要考量電力消耗與可能干擾他人(沒被熊追結果因為音樂太難聽被揍)，熊鈴鐺成為最廣為接受的方式，當然效果不及大聲放音樂。一般熱門步道熊鈴鐺與防熊噴霧已經足夠，在冷門步道才需要用播放音樂等更直接刺激的方式。
As mentioned earlier, I only do short hike and avoid to leave my bicycle and baggage too long.
From castle junction(about 1500 in elevation), which is about 23km from Banff, through narrow Kootenay n.P. , to Radium hot springs(about 800 in elevation), is about 105 km. Although this 105 journey goes through two passes--Vermilion pass1640m and Sinclair pass1486m, it's an easy bicycle ride to split the journey into 2 days.
Let me discuss more about the “bear”. Cyclists are used to be chased by a dog, and it's reported once in a while that a cyclist chased by the bear. We all know the golden rule “don't run” when encountering the bear(unless the bear sees you as its feast). But the bear in the woods is sometimes difficult to be spotted by the cyclist/Hiker. The cyclist, who isn't aware of this bear, goes though the bear’s eyesight, may be wrongly understood by the bear”the cyclist is escaping from me and he is sacred”, or even worse, the bear is disturbed by the cyclist. All of these triggers the chasing action, just like the dog.
So making noises and let the bear knows that someone is coming is important. Playing music is most effective but you have to consider the power consumption of the playing device. And to play music may be regarded as the disturbing behavior by others. The bear bell, although less effective, is well accepted. Generally, a bear bell and the bear spray is enough for hiking/cycling on a popular route, and playing music out loud is suggested in a desolate area
( 本文作者 : 不羁的驴子 )