首页热门推荐 登山 GORE-TEX(R)刃脊登山队玉兔峰攀登报告[组图]

GORE-TEX(R)刃脊登山队玉兔峰攀登报告[组图]

作者:darkblueocean    2007-11-06 14:57


玉兔峰攀登线路

  Will the true summit of Yutu ever be reached? It defenitely will some day, but I find it interesting how elusive this peak is . The rabbit keeps hopping away. Yutu proved to be steep and compliCATed. On summit day we thought we could simply climb to the ridge and following it to the glacier which would lead to some easy rock towards the summit. How wrong we were.

  会不会有人站在玉兔峰的最高点?我想肯定会有一那天,但是很有意思是玉兔的顶峰是那么难以捉摸的,"兔子"跳跃不定,玉兔确实很陡峭和复杂。登顶那天我们以为可以直接顺山脊走到冰川,从冰川会到比较容易攀登的石头,然后就到顶了,结果是我们完全估算错了。


曾山和刘勇在观察路线


C1营地


C2营地

  On "summit" day we left at a little past 6AM and eASIly reached the ridge by 8AM. This section of the ridge proved to be un-climbable. (Well, no ridge is truly un-climbable, but some are so distorted and ugly that climbing along them is impractical, risky, and a huge waste of time). We abandoned this plan and traversed out onto Yutu's face. We did not know what the face had to offer, but to our relief found it very climbable. We were able to link-up class 4 snow and rock ramps. At one point a 20 meter high rock band of loose and vertical rock split these ramps. Liu Yong efficiently surmounted this obstacle and we continued following the ramps up the face to a slightly overhanging snow cornice. I dug my way through the cornice which led onto the glacier.

  "登顶"那天我们早上6点过一点从帐篷出发了,8点钟很顺利地到了山脊下面。这段山脊没法攀登(实际上没有什么山脊攀登不了,但是有的山脊那么扭歪的,那么丑陋的,危险,和耗费时间巨多,攀登确实不切实际)。我们放弃了山脊往玉兔的正面横切。我们根本不知道正面的路线怎么样,但是过去了以后发现它有希望,能连接4级雪和石头的坡道,顺这些坡道往上爬,其间有一段20米高的很长的岩壁,刘勇有效地超越了这个障碍物,然后我们继续顺正面的坡道到了雪檐,我通过挖掘雪檐就到了后面的冰川。

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