红色路线为俄罗斯队最新路线 蓝色为西山脊路线

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原文翻译：终极lee
整理 校译：大鹏

　　The west face of K2 (8611m) from 6900m on Savoia Kangri. The left skyline is the northwest ridge, which so far is unclimbed in its entirety. The right skyline is the southwest ridge: Magic Line (Bozik-Prezemyslov-Piasecki-Wroz, 1986). The blue line is the west ridge with A1 the original finish (summit reached by Ohtani and Sabir in 1981). A2 is the line taken by Osamu Tanabe's Japanese Expedition in 1997. This team followed the 1981 route to ca. 7800m, cut back to the crest of the west ridge at ca. 8000m, traversed across the upper west face to a col on the northwest ridge, continued across to the top of the north ridge (hidden), and up easy snow to the summit. The red line marks the new Russian Direct (eleven climbers led by Pavel Shabalin, 2007). [Photo] The Jules Cartwright Trust

　　图片说明:K2(8611米)的西壁攀登出发点是从海拔6900米的Savoia Kangri.山峰的左边轮廓线既是西北山脊,这条路线很长所以至今没有被攀登者全部完成.山峰的右边轮廓既是西南山脊,被命名为魔法路线(Bozik-Prezemyslov-Piasecki-Wroz, 1986). 蓝色路线是西山脊路线(A1),是最早被完成的路线(为1981年 Ohtani和Sabir 登顶).A2路线被Osamu Tanabe带领的日本探险队于1997年完成.这支队伍跟随1981年的路线到达7800的扎营,然后cut back 到8000米西山脊的山顶扎营,然后再从西壁的上方横切通过到西北山脊(col),然后继续横切到北山脊的山顶(hidden),最后很容易的通过雪坡到达了顶峰.红色路线为俄罗斯人直上的最新路线(11个攀登者在Pavel Shabalin带领下完成,2007年).[Photo] The Jules Cartwright Trust

俄罗斯队的营地设置

俄罗斯队的11位队员
图片左边从上到下，Victor Volodin, Vitaly Gorelik, Eugeny Vinogradsky 和 Gleb Sokolov
右边从上到下Gennady Kirievsky, Iljas Tukhvatullin, Nick Totmjanin 和Alexey Bolotov
中间是Pavel Shabalin

　　Applying the same tactics that they used so sUCCessfully on The North Face of Jannu in 2004 and the North Face Direct of Everest the same year, the Russians have done it again on the world's second highest mountain. After a prolonged siege of two and a half months, an extremely strong team led by the legendary Pavel Shabalin made the First Ascent of the west face direct on K2, completing what is almost certainly the hardest route on this 8611-meter Karakoram mountain.

　　运用同样的战术，2004年他们很成功完成Jannu的北壁路线和珠峰北壁直上路线。俄罗斯人又一次在世界第二高峰取得成功。在传奇人物Pavel Shabalin带领下，这支非常强大的探险队通过两个半月的长期围攻作战，首次完成了8611米的K2几乎最难的攀登。