JON 25日前段英文报道

  English Dispatch Octo25

  On October 21st we drove the one hour to Taizhan Valley (also known as Yarh a Zachu Valley) to meet our horses. The horses were 3 hours late so it was dusk by the time we and our equipment arrived basecamp. After setting up camp an deating a simple dinner, we stripped off our clothes and partook of the natural hotspring which is only 50 meters from our tents. The water bubbling from the Source is upwards of 50 degrees Celcious. This spring is a little piece of heaven here 4050m elevation.

  That evening it started to snow, and continued without stopping for the ne xt 48 hours.our green camp turned into a white wonder land . it finally stopped after 30cm of accomilation on the morning of the 24th . we could do no climbing for those 2 days so lofe consisted of sleeping ,eating and reading in our MSR tent,and of course soaking in the hot spring , MaYiHua made elaborate salads which we all enjoyed.

  On the afternoon of the 24th ,the weather was slightly better ,I threw on my Gore ARCTERYX jacket and hiked up the small gulleys towards C1 to check out our route, I made it to 4750m .on the main west ridge. Here there are prayer flags, the last of a series that adorn the ridge.

  October 25 it was an absolutely orgeous day and our spirits lifted as we packed gear and food ,put on our BD heelmets, and followed the gulleys I took yesterday to C1(4600m) ,C1 is situated in a rocky bowl-like area directly below the west face and near the west ridge. We have decided to climb an easy gully up to the west ridge and then follow the ridge to the smmit----hopefully. October 26 we will put camp on the ridge and continue up in alpine style from there.there . ZhangJian,Asu ,Zelanto have already given us invaluable support up to this point.

  From our first ridge camp at around 4800m. hopefully it will take no more than 4days to reach the summit. But we do not know what this rout ultimately holds in store for us. This is last english dispatch until we come off the mountain.

  Jon