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乔戈里峰的历史背景[组图]

作者:admin    05-14 00:00

  Another American attempt on K2 was made in 1953. The Expedition leader was Dr. Charles Houston, who had also led the 1938 American expedition on this peak. Dr. Houston, a doctor and professor, is noted for his contribution to research on the effects of high altitude on human body and diseases originating from such effects. One Pakistani, late Colonel M. Ataullah, Vice President, Karakoram Club of Pakistan, accompanied the party. This time the party took porters from Hunza instead of SHERPAs from NEPAl. As against the previous expeditions, which entered Baltistan from Srinagar (in the Indian occupied Kashmir) through a very long route, the party flew into Skardu and then adopted the traditional route to K2 over Baltoro glacier. 1953年,第三支美国探险队在查尔斯·休斯顿医生的率领下尝试攀登乔戈里峰。休斯顿医生曾率领过1938年的美国探险队攀登过此峰,他是个医学教授,因为研究人体在高海拔上受到的影响及其影响导致的疾病所做出的贡献而闻名遐迩。时任巴基斯坦喀喇昆仑俱乐部副主席的巴基斯坦人前陆军上校M.阿陶拉也参加了这次探险活动。这次探险队没有从尼泊尔雇佣夏尔巴人做挑夫,而是雇佣了罕萨人。探险队没有像前支探险队一样从斯利那加(印控克什米尔地区首府)穿过一段很长的路进入巴拉提斯坦,而是乘飞机抵达斯卡都,采用穿越巴尔托洛冰川抵达乔戈里峰这条传统路线。


 

  K2 Base Camp(乔戈里峰大本营)

  It was at Camp VIII, at about 7772 meters that the party was hit by a Blizzard which lasted many days. On the 7th of August one member, Arthur Gilkey, developed thrombophlebitis. In view of his serious condition it was decided to start Descent in spite of bad weather. At the end of the day, the party was involved in a "fall on a steep slope as a result of a slip and tangling of ropes". Luckily nobody was seriously injured. Subsequently all members assembled at the nearby camp VII. Gilkey was secured on the snow slope with two ice AXEs until a party could be mustered to bring him across the slope to the camp. However, when three members of the party returned to Gilkey, they found that he had been swept away by an avalanche. It took rest of the party five hard days to reach the base camp. On reaching there, the party immediately started for Skardu because one of the members, George Bell, had very bad frost-bitten feet. In spite of their very best efforts, the Americans could not climb K2 from the south-east ridge.

  在海拔7772米的8号营,探险队受到了持续了好几天的大风雪的袭击。8月7日,队员亚瑟?吉尔奇血栓恶化。考虑到他严重的身体状况,探险队不顾恶劣的天气决定立即下撤。在当天的未了,探险队“因为又滑又乱的结绳而坠落到陡峭的斜坡上”而陷入困境。幸运的是没人受重伤。随后所有队员在附近的7号营集合。吉尔奇被两支冰镐固定在雪坡上,很安全,直到探险队能够鼓起勇气穿过斜坡把他带到营地。然而当三名队员向吉尔奇走回去时,发现他已经被雪崩卷走了。余下队员花了五天时间才艰难抵达大本营。他们一抵达那里就立马向斯卡都起程,因为队员乔治·贝尔腿部被严重冻伤。尽管尽了最大努力,美国人还是没能从东南山脊攀登乔戈里峰。

  In 1954, an Italian expedition came to Pakistan to try its luck on K2. It consisted of twelve climbers and four scientists and was led by veteran mountaineer, Professor Ardito Desio, who had come to these mountains with Italian expeditions before the World War II. Colonel M. Ataullah and Arshad Munir accompanied the expedition from Karakoram Club of Pakistan. Captain (later Lt. General) G.S. Butt was the liaison officer.

  1954年,一支意大利探险队来到巴基斯坦想在乔戈里峰上碰碰运气。探险队由12名登山员和4名科学家组成,并由经验丰富的登山家阿迪托?迪塞奥教授率领;阿迪托·迪塞奥教授曾在二战前随意大利探险队来攀登过这些山峰。来自巴基斯坦喀喇昆仑俱乐部的陆军上校M.阿陶拉和阿沙德·默尼尔参加了这次探险活动。G.S.巴特上尉(后来任陆军中将)任联络官。

  Poor weather hindered the progress of the party for a pretty long time. As soon as the weather cleared, the party made very good progress and set up camp II. It was at this camp that one of its members, Mario Puchoz, a 36-year old guide, died of pneumonia on the 21st June. It is believed that he had contracted high altitude pulmonary oedema (water on the lungs) which was not well known at the time and does not respond to antibiotics.

  在相当长一段时间里,恶劣的天气阻碍了探险队的进展。天气一晴朗,探险队就取得了很好的进展并建立了2号营。6月21日,36岁的高山向导玛利奥·普卓兹教授在2号营罹患肺炎与世长辞。人们认为他患了高海拔肺水肿,那时人们并不很了解这种病,没想到要用抗生素来治疗。

  The party established six more camps on the south-east ridge. Camp IX was a bivouac. On the 31st of July, Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni started from the bivouac. They continued their assault and reached the summit at six in the evening. After staying for a while they started descending and reached Camp VIII round about eleven at night. In this way the saga of K2 ended.

  探险队在东南山脊建立了6个营地,还建立了露营地9号营。7月31日,里诺·雷斯德里和阿奇里·科帕哥诺尼从露营地出发继续冲顶,并于晚上6点登顶。在峰顶待了一会儿,他们开始下撤,大约晚上11点抵达8号营。就这样,乔戈里峰的传奇结束了。

  The peak has now been climbed from almost all ridges.

  现在,几乎从所有的山脊人们都已攀登过乔戈里峰了。

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