We topped out the wall after sEVENTeen pitches in the middle of the fourth day, and from this point onward, the route changed to remarkable alpine ridge climbing while the weather deteriorated to white out fog and snow flurries. The rest of day four and all of day five were spent navigating the crest, weaving between dozens of gendarmes. This rock ridge, which we dubbed "The Rake"(after a similar peak in our local Cascade Mountains), ended at camp 5 (16,800') just before the notch below the upper mountain.

　　到第4天中午时分，经过17段绳距的攀登我们登顶大岩壁，但从这一点开始，路线变为典型的阿式高山路线了，同时天气恶化，浓雾弥漫，还飘着小雪。当天余下的时间和整个第5天，我们都在这个脊顶上度过，穿梭在数十个尖顶之间。我们称这个山脊为"The Rake"（因为和我们当地Cascade山区的一座山峰很相似）晚上我们宿营在海拔5121米的5号营地，紧挨着下一个山尖之间的凹谷部分。

　　Throughout day six the weather worsened to sleet with near zero visibility as we ascended through the notch and up a 500-foot verglassed rock step. The notch itself proved to be the crux of The Rake, with several outrageously slender gendarmes and much snow-covered rock. We chopped camp 6 (17,400') into the hanging glacier above the rock step.

　　更糟糕的坏天气持续了整个第6天，并且开始下起了冰雹，能见度几乎为零，我们艰难的穿过了凹谷部分，并在冻雨中向上爬了150多米的岩石阶。这些凹谷部分被证明是这条山脊路线"The Rake"的难点部分，上面散布着很多"蛮横"的尖峰和很多冰雪覆盖的岩石。接下来我们在岩石阶上放的进入悬冰川的地方宿营（6号营地，海拔5304米）。

Chad在第5天的攀登中

Dylan在6号营地处面对着将要攀登的刀锋型山脊