Day seven included the mixed climbing crux of the route, two pitches of snowy rock (M5) to gain the crest above the seracs on the north side of the ridge. The weather continued to provide snow flurries and no visibility. We enjoyed absolutely classic alpine ridge climbing for the second half of the day. Hundreds of meters of happy cowboys (riding the crest like a bull) on both snow and rock, hooking tools on the crest, and navigating rocks and cornices. Camp 7, on a glacial shelf at 18,300 feet, offered the first flat ground we'd set foot on since base camp.

　　第7天包括了很多混合路线中的难点攀登，攀过两段绳距的冰岩混合路线(难度M5)，我们到达这条山脊北面上的一个冰塔。天气依然很糟，风雪大作，白茫茫的一片，可见度基本为零。但下午典型的阿式路线让我们感到很兴奋，数百米高的"快乐的牛仔"（因为骑在上边就像骑着头牛）塔的两边一边是冰雪覆盖，一边是裸露的岩石，用锁具钩在岩顶上，行走在岩石和雪檐之上，那感觉棒极了。我们在岩石阶上面海拔5578米的冰川庇护下搭建了7号营地，这是我们从大本营出发后第一次露宿在平坦的地方，其他夜晚都是在悬崖上度过的。

第七天攀登至happy cowboy处

　　On the morning of day eight (despite being three days behind schedule) we cached our camp and set off for the summit amid yet another whiteout. We were quite thankful the ridge was so well defined, as we could climb in poor weather and stay on route. Snow and ice runnels bisecting the upper rock steps led to a happy cowboy finale followed by a mixed traverse on the south face. By mid afternoon we reached the summit seracs. A short vertical ice pitch provided access to the upper snow slopes, and we traversed north under the false summit, reaching the rimed summit at 4:35 p.m. Promptly encouraged by the darkening wall of hate boiling and flashing to the west, we began our Descent. Just before dark we reached the happy cowboy as the lightning storm worsened and drew close, striking the ridge several times directly above our heads. We took refuge on the mixed traverse south of the crest and waited for the lightening to subside. One hour later we dashed across the happy cowboy and continued rappelling towards our high camp cache. By 11:00 p.m., at 19,000 feet in stormy weather, we could not find the gully leading down to the high camp cache. We spent the night climbing and down climbing the sixty-degree snow in an attempt to stay warm. At dawn, both encrusted in rime ourselves, the clouds parted and we saw the route down to high camp.

　　第8天的早上（尽管比原定计划晚了3天），天气仍然一片乳白，我们安置好帐篷开始发起冲顶计划。幸亏这条攀登线路是如此的明了，没有让我们在可见度很低的情况下迷路。布满积雪和冰沟的岩石阶组成了happy cowboy最后的一段下降，顺利地横切过南面的混合路面，下午时分我们到达了顶峰冰塔下边。经过一段绳距的攀冰路线到达了上边的雪坡，然后向北横切过假顶，下午4：35分，我们终于到达了真正的顶点。看着天色渐晚，我们开始迅速下撤。在天全黑以前我们返回到了"快乐的牛仔"，当时电闪雷鸣，雷电几次击中我们上边的岩石，我们只好暂时躲避一下。我们躲在那段向南横切的山脊那等待雷雨的平息。1小时后我们匆匆的横穿"快乐的牛仔"，继续用绳索下降，试图回到我们的高山营地。晚上11点时，在海拔5791米的暴风雪天气中，我们找不到用来下降到7号营地我们放置宿营设备那里的那条雪槽了。为了保持体温，我们整个晚上都在60度的雪坡中爬上爬下。 拂晓时分，我们两个人身上都早已结了一层冰霜，像盔甲。乌云渐渐散去，我们终于找到了到达营地的路线。

第8天Chad在领攀一段混合路线

在海拔5800米苦熬了一晚上之后的Chad