REInhold Messner——莱因霍尔德·梅斯纳尔

　　他是当代最知名的登山家，他全世界第一个登顶了14座8000米山峰的人。1948年出生在南蒂罗尔，5岁开始登山。

　　20岁时，他和兄弟Gunter几乎爬遍了Dolmites和西阿尔卑斯所有最艰难的线路。他的信条是轻装阿尔卑斯登山法。迟后，Gunter在第一次去喜马拉雅山脉攀登南迦帕尔巴特时遇难。

　　在第一次无氧登珠峰后，他单人攀登了南迦帕尔巴特和珠峰。他成为第一个登上所有8000米高峰的人，第三个登完7大洲最高峰的人。他是登山者中活着的传说。

　　“虽然世人认为无氧登珠峰和单人攀登南迦帕尔巴特是不可逾越的，”他说，实际上，他的个人壮举应该是1984年和Hans Kammerlander在加舒尔布鲁木1、2峰之间的穿越。

　　1975他和Peter Habeler宣布将会在8000米高峰中应用阿尔卑斯法，结果他们在加舒尔布鲁木1峰中成功，并使这种方法闻名。

　　梅斯纳尔最可贵的是，他是唯一攀登南迦帕尔巴特Rupal线路登顶的人，也可能是唯一真正单人攀登珠峰的人，今天，珠峰上人山人海，即使单人登顶，只是意味着从冲锋营地到顶峰无人帮助罢了。梅斯纳尔在季风后期登顶，现在恐怕任何人都办不到。

　　目前梅斯纳尔已经停止登山，但是1996年仍然出现在加舒尔布鲁木1峰BC，可当他看到满山的人之后，就转头离开了。

　　功成名就之后的梅斯纳尔住在意大利阿尔卑斯山下的Juval古堡，开始专注于轻装极地探险。1990年他首次尝试徒步前往南北极，但并没有取得成功。他脑海里还酝酿着第二次。

　　梅斯纳尔是少数几个声称曾经见过雪人的西方人之一，他说他遇见过两次，第二次在喀喇昆仑山攀登中碰见雪人并且还拍了照片做证，这些都写在他1999年的书里。

　　有人说梅斯纳尔的性格被高山缺氧对大脑造成的伤害所改变了，并且借他警告后人，不要在高山上拼得太狠。但是，哪一个人经历了他那种广受关注后会不发生变化呢？

　　梅斯纳尔作为顶级的登山家和真实的攀登英雄，将继续在21世纪激励新一代攀登者。

　　最近消息：2000年，梅斯纳尔和兄弟Hubert及Hans Peter Eisendle、Wolfgang Thomaseth尝试南迦帕尔巴特峰的未知线路，在攀上一座极高的山体之后，他们发现登顶的路线太危险而难以继续。

　　登山经历：
　　1966～Yerupaja
　　1966～Yerupaja Chico(首登）
　　1970～南迦帕尔巴特Nanga Parbat（8125m，Rupal线路，首登）
　　1972～玛纳斯鲁Manaslu(8156m, 南壁)
　　1974～Eiger north face
　　1975～加舒尔布鲁木1GasherbrumI（西北壁，首次阿尔卑斯式攀登8000米以上山峰登顶）
　　1977～道拉吉里Dhaulagiri (8167m)
　　1978～珠峰Mount Everest（8848m，首次无氧登顶）
　　1978～南迦帕尔巴特Nanga Parbat（8125m，Damir壁，首次单人攀登8000米以上山峰登顶）
　　1979～乔戈里峰K2（8611m，首次阿尔卑斯式攀登该峰）
　　1979～Ama Dablam（救援行动）
　　1980～珠峰Mount Everest（8848m，北侧线路，首次单人登顶）
　　1981～希夏邦马Shisha Pangma（8012m）
　　1982～干城章嘉Kangchenjunga（8598m，北壁线路，首登）
　　1982～加舒尔布鲁木2GasherbrumII（8035m）
　　1982～布诺阿特Broad Peak（8048m）
　　1982～卓奥友Cho Oyo（8208m，冬季攀登）
　　1983～卓奥友Cho Oyo（8208m，阿尔卑斯式攀登）
　　1984～加舒尔布鲁木1、2GasherbrumI&II（首次8000米山峰穿越）
　　1985～安那普尔纳Annapurna（8091m，西北壁线路，首登）
　　1985～道拉吉里Dhaulagiri（8167m，东北山脊，阿尔卑斯式攀登）
　　1986～马卡鲁Makalu（8485m，冬季攀登失败，夏季继续攀登）
　　1986～洛子Lhotse（8511m）

　　The most famous climber in the world today, Reinhold Messner has been climbing since he was five years old. Born 1948 in Villn歴s in the South Tyrol.

　　By the age of 20, he had climbed most of the hardest routes in the Dolmites and Western ALPS together with his brother Gunter and had already started to formulate his dediCATion and philosophy in clean lightweight alpine-style climbing. Gunter was later killed by an avalanche on Nanga Parbat during their first himalayan Expedition.

　　After the first oxygenless climb of Everest, his solo ascents of Nanga Parbat and Everest, being the first to climb all eight-thou sanders and finishing the "Seven Summits"as the third person, he is a living legend among climbers.--"As far as the public is concerned, since 1978 my sensational climbs～Everest without oxygen and Nanga Parbat solo～are unsurpassable." Messner himself consider the traverse between Gasherbrum I and II with Hans Kammerlander in 1984～to be his supreme Himalayan achievement.

　　In 1975 he and Peter Habeler made a statement that they were going to attack a 8,000 metre mountain in the same manners as done in the Alps. After sUCCeeding on Gasherbrum I, their climb is regarded as the introduction of the "alpine style" climbing.

　　Something to remember about Messners climbs that really point out his capabilities is that until today he is the only person to have climbed the extremely dangerous Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat and probably the only person that ever truly will climb Everest alone. Today the mountain is crowded and if someone claims to have climbed it "solo", it means that it was done without help from others from the last camp to the summit. Also, Messner did his climb during the past-monsoon season, something never done before.

　　Today Messner has stopped climbing and said that he never again will return to the high mountains, but in 1996 he showed up in base camp below Gasherbrum I, to just turn around when he saw the crowd in base-camp. He actually admits playing with the thougt to once more go back, but if this happens only the future will show.

　　Messer who"s become a wealthy man, has no intention to settle himself in a risk-free environment in his Castle Juval in the Italian Alps, during recent years he"s become totally absorbed with lightweight polar expeditions. In 1990 he was first again, now by crossing the Antarctic continent on foot. Later it was time for the Arctic, however the expedition was unsuccessful, but a second try is on his mind...

　　Messner is also one of the few western people that claims to have seen the YETI. According to Messner, he"s met it twice, the second time during his latest expedition to Karakorum, this time with pictures as proof! They are published in his latest book, released in 1999.

　　Some people say of Messner that his personality has changed after his high altitude climbs, they suspect brain damage due to lack of oxygen, and uses him as a warning example of what can happen when pushing it to hard on extreme altitudes. The famous Shepra, Nazir Sabir who"s been climbing with Messner, also says to have introduced Messner to the art of smoking hasch at high altidudes. If this is true, it"s not hard to imagine that this must be an easy way of loosing braincells by millions !!--But who wouldn"t change when getting so much attention?

　　Reinhold Messners memory as a top mountaineer and a true climbing hero will continue inspire generations of climbers into the 21th century.

　　Latest news: In the summer of 2000 Reinhold returned to Nanga Parbat to try an unclimbed route. With him was his brother Hubert, Hans Peter Eisendle and Wolfgang Thomaseth. After reaching very high on the mountain wall, they found the summit ridge too dangerous to continue.

　　SELECTED CLIMBS AND EXPEDITIONS:

　　1950～64～Over 500 climbs in the eastern Alps, mainly in the Dolomites
　　1965～Ortler North Face (Direttissima, 1st ascent)
　　1966～Yerupaja
　　1966～Yerupaja Chico (First Ascent)
　　1966～Walker Spur, Grandes Jorasses
　　1966～Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero North Face
　　1967～Civetta Northwest Face ("Weg der Freunde", first ascent)
　　1967～Agner North Edge (first winter ascent)
　　1967～Furchetta North Face (first winter ascent)
　　1967～Agner Northeast Face (first ascent)
　　1968～Agner North Face (first winter ascent)
　　1968～Eiger North Pillar (first ascent)
　　1968～Marmolata South Face (first ascent)
　　1969～Droites North Face (solo)
　　1969～Marmolata di Rocca South Face (solo)
　　1969～Civetta ("Philipp Flamm", solo)
　　1970～Nanga Parbat (8125m, Rupal face, first ascent)
　　1971～Expeditions to NEPAl, Pakistan, Persia, East Africa, New Guinea
　　1972～Manaslu (8156m, South Face)
　　1972～Noshaq (7492m, in Hindu Kush)
　　1973～Pelmo Northwest Face (first ascent)
　　1973～Marmolata West Pillar (first ascent)
　　1973～Furchetta West Face (first ascent)
　　1974～Eiger north face (in 10 hours)
　　1974～Aconcagua (6959m, South face, first ascent)
　　1975～Gasherbrum I Northwest Face (first alpine style ascent above 8000m)
　　1976～MCKINLEY (6193m)
　　1976～"Wall of the Midnight Sun" (first ascent)
　　1977～Dhaulagiri (8167m, failed)
　　1978～Mount Everest (8850m, first ascent without supplemental oxygen)
　　1978～Nanga Parbat (8125m, Damir face, first solo ascent of an 8000m peak)
　　1978～Kilimanjaro (5963m, Breach Wall, first ascent)
　　1979～K2 (8611m, first ascent in alpine style)
　　1979～Ama Dablam (rescue operation)
　　1980～Mount Everest north side (8850m, first and only true solo ascent)
　　1981～Shisha Pangma (8012m)
　　1981～Chamlang North Face of the central summit (7317m, first ascent)
　　1982～Kangchenjunga north face (8598m, first ascent)
　　1982～Gasherbrum II (8035m)
　　1982～Broad Peak (8048m)
　　1982～Cho Oyo (8222m, attempt in winter)
　　1983～Cho Oyo (8222m, alpine style)
　　1984～Gasherbrum I and II (first traverse between 8000m mountains)
　　1985～Annapurna Northwest Face (8091m, first ascent)
　　1985～Dhaulagiri Northeast Edge (8167m, alpine style)
　　1986～Makalu (8485m, failen in winter, returned in summer)
　　1986～Lhotse (8511m)
　　1986～Mount Vinson (4897m, Antarctica)
　　1987～Journey to Bhutan and the Pamirs
　　1988～Yeti-Tibet-expedition
　　1989～Lhotse (8511m, South face attempt)
　　1990～Traversed Antarctica (via the South Pole on foot～2800km)
　　1991～Traversed Bhutan (east to west)
　　1991～Hike in South Tyrol (800km)
　　1992～Chimborazo
　　1992～Crossed the Takla Makan desert (south to north)
　　1993～Journey to the Dolpo, Mustang and Manang areas in Nepal
　　1993～Traverse of Greenland (from southeast to northwest on foot～2200km)
　　1994～Himalayan environmental TREK to Gangotri in India
　　1994～Shivling (6543m)
　　1994～Ruwenzori (5119m, Uganda)
　　1995～Attempt to traverse the Arctic (Siberia to Canada)
　　1995～Belucha (4506m, Altai, Siberia)
　　1996～Journey through East Tibet (Chengdu to Lhasa and to the kailash)
　　1997～Journey to Kham (eastern Tibet)
　　1997～Karakorum-expedition
　　1997～document.ry on the Ol Doinyo Lengai in Africa
　　1998～Journey to the Altai Mountains (Mongolia)
　　1998～Journey to Puna de Atacama (Andes)
　　1999～document.ry on San Francisco Peaks, USA
　　2000～South Georgia (traverse following in Shackletons footsteps)