9月21日-30期间,两位美国登山者Chad Kellogg和Dylan Johnson经过10天的努力完成了四姑娘山幺妹峰西南山脊(6250米)首登。以下为Dylan Johnson所写的登山报告。
注:本文发表于《Climbing》杂志 作者:Dylan Johnson
翻译:faye 大鹏 整理校对:大鹏
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远看四姑娘北壁
From September 21 through 30, Chad Kellogg and I completed the First Ascent of the southwest ridge of Siguniang (6250m), Changping Valley, China. The route began with 2,500 feet of steep rainforest, weaving through cliff bands to the base of a granite wall at 14,200 feet. Making three bivis on the 2000-foot wall, we climbed a direct line through vertical crack systems with free climbing up to 5.11 and much A2 compliCATed by grass and moss in the cracks.
9月21到30号,Chad Kellogg和我完成了西姑娘山主峰幺妹峰(6250米)西南山脊路线的首登。这条路线从海拔762米的热带雨林开始,往上走岩石越来越多,我们选择在海拔4328米处的一花岗岩岩壁下建立大本营。这个岩壁高约610米,我们花了3天时间攀登。我们沿着一条垂直的裂缝路线交替保护攀登,难度达到了5.11,路线很复杂,高于A2,岩缝上长满了杂草和苔藓。
开始部分的600多米的大岩壁
Chad在攀登第10个绳距
发表于:11-05 15:02