Kurt Diemberger——科特·戴姆伯格

　　1932年生于奥地利。生活在Salzburg和Bologna。

　　他是在世人中唯一首登2座8000米级山峰的人——布洛阿特（1957）、道拉吉里（1960）。他是西方阿尔卑斯登山法在喜马拉雅山区使用的先驱，同时他也是最后见到Hermann Buhl的人。

　　他和Julie Tullis组成“世界最高摄影队”，拍摄了珠峰、南迦帕尔巴特和喀拉昆仑山的登山活动。

　　1986年Julie和Kurt登顶K2，时间已经7点了，快到顶时Julie在上部，拽着Kurt，Kurt以为完蛋了。但是他们奇迹般的在边上停住了。结果他们在8000米以上过了夜。第二天，他们到了C4，天气变坏了，他们的帐篷被风刮坏了，不得不钻到别人的帐篷里。那天晚上，Julie死了，可能是脑水肿。Kurt的心都碎了。后来6个人用完了所有的燃料和食品，在暴风雪中束手待毙。在接下来的家天里，风渐渐小了，他们全都处在幻觉和混乱之中。2天以后，他们意识到如果不下山就会死，但是知名的登山家Aj Rouse根本就不能动了，他被留在帐篷里。Weiser和Lmitzer已经完全虚脱了，他们呆在躺倒的地方，其他3人继续向下，几小时后Wolf滑坠遇难，只有Diemberger和Bauer继续下山。C3已经被雪崩破坏了，到了C2，找到食品、燃料和帐篷，第二天Bauer回到BC，他告诉人们Diemberger正在往下爬，午夜，他才被发现正在C2到前进营地的路线绳上。那一年，27个人登顶K2，13人遇难。

　　他后来仍然坚持攀登并拍摄影片，但他不会再回到那极高的地方了。

　　8000m以上登山经历：

　　1957～布洛阿特Broad Peak（首登）
　　1960～道拉吉里Dhaulagiri（首登）
　　1978～马卡鲁Makalu、珠峰Everest
　　1979～加舒尔布鲁木Gasherbrum
　　1984～布洛阿特Broad Peak
　　1986～乔戈里K2

　　Born in Austria 1932. Lives in Salzburg and Bologna.

　　The only person alive that have made two First Ascents on mountains above 8,000 metres. Broad Peak (1957) and Dhaulagiri (1960). A PIONEER of western alpine-style technique in the himalayas. He was also the last person to see Hermann Buhl alive near the summit of Chogolisa, just before he fell through a cornice.

　　Together with Julie Tullis he formed "the highest film-team in the world". Together they filmed on Everest, Nanga Parbat and in the Karakoram, making films about the climbers, mountains and the people who live there.

　　In 1986 Julie and Kurt made it to the summit of K2, the hour was extremely late, 7 p.m. They hugged each other and Julie gushed -"Kurt, our dream is finally fulfilled: K2 is now ours!". Near the summit Julie fell, she was above and dragged Kurt with her. Kurt remembers -"My God, this is it. This is the end." Miraculously they managed to stop before the edge. There they spent the night above 8,000 metres.

　　The next day, they reached Camp IV and was welcomed by five other climbers. The weather had worsened and it was now hurricane winds. Julie" and Kurt"s tent collapsed and they had to move into the other climbers tents. During the night Julie died, possibly because of cerebral edema. When Kurt hears about her death, he gets devastated. Later that day, the six survivors used up their last food and fuel, trapped in high camp in a ferrous hurricane.

　　During the next three days, their strength slowly fades away. They were all in the state -"were it is hard to tell dreams from reality". Two days later the party realised they have to descend now or they all would die! However the known alpinist Al Rouse couldn"t move and was left in his tent. The two climbers Weiser and Imitzer almost immediately collapsed. They were left where they lay. The three remaining climbers continued down. Some hours later Wolf dropped behind and was never seen again. It was now only Diemberger and Bauer that continued.

　　Camp III had been destRoYed by an avalanche, they pressed down to camp II where they found food, fuel and shelter. Next night Bauer made it to Base Camp, he told that Diemberger also was descending somewhere above. He was found in the middle of the night, trying to crawl down the fixed ropes between Camp II and advanced base camp.

　　That season 27 climbers made it to the summit of K2 - and 13 died.

　　After this climb Diemberger said that it will never be the same again, but he keeps returning to the mountains, they have helped him before and will do so again.

　　He is still active and keeps filming together with his daughter, however he won"t return to the high altitudes.

　　8000+ CLIMBS

　　1957 - Broad Peak
　　1960 - Dhaulagirin
　　1978 - Makalu
　　1978 - Everest
　　1979 - Gasherbrum
　　1984 - Broad Peak
　　1986 - K2