首页户外知识 登雪山 乔戈里峰—野蛮之峰 [组图]

乔戈里峰—野蛮之峰 [组图]

作者:admin    2004-04-13 00:00

  After returning to Italy, the Expedition in general and Lacedelli and Compagnoni in particular, were looked upon as heroes, but for some reason Bonattis effort to bring up the oxygen bottles and his remarkable bivouac were barely mentioned at all. During the next decade Bonattis part of the expedition was only briefly mentioned if at all by national media. Bonatti himself could find no reason to why his part of the expedition was overlooked and, it seemed, hushed down. Finally, on the tenth anniversary of the summit conquest an article appeared in one of the national newspapers accusing Bonatti of having intended a summit attempt by himself. FurThermore, he was accused of having used the oxygen designated for Lacedelli and Campagnoli during his bivouac; this would be the reason why the summiteers had run out of oxygen before reaching the summit. It turned out this story had been spread within the alpine community in Italy, but in order to keep scandals out of the expedition it had been quieted so efficiently it took a decade before even Bonatti himself was became aware of it through the article.

  返回意大利后,探险队总的来说,尤其是雷斯德里和科帕哥诺尼,都被视为英雄了。但是由于某些原因,博纳提搬运氧气瓶的努力和他那非同凡响的露营经历却很少被人提起过。之后的十年时间里,博纳提在探险队的作用即使被国家新闻媒体报道也是被简简单单一笔带过。博纳提自己本身也不知道为什么自己在探险队里的作用会被忽略,而且似乎被秘而不宣了。最后,在庆祝征服乔戈里峰十周年的纪念日里,有家国家新闻报纸发表一篇文章,指责博纳提曾打算自己独自尝试冲顶;而且,他还被指责在当晚露营中使用了备配给雷斯德里和科帕哥诺尼的氧气。这可能就是为什么雷斯德里和科帕哥诺尼在冲顶前会耗尽氧气的缘故了。后来事实证明这篇文章早就在意大利高山界内部传播开了,但是为了使探险队不介入这件丑闻,他们足足费了十年时间才有效地平息这件事,直到博纳提从报纸上刊登的这篇文章当中才知道这回事。

  After these accusations were brought out in the open Bonatti started a lawsuit to clear his name. EVENTually the newspaper lost the case. It was established that Bonatti could not have used the oxygen during his bivouac since he and Mahdi did not have oxygen masks in their possession (the masks were in camp 9 with Lacedelli and Compagnoni). Neither had he abandoned Mahdi as was suggested in the article. On the contrary, he had done everything possible to help the Hunza make it through the night while the summiteers in the last camp had refused to come and help them. Although Bonatti was freed from accusations of being a liar and a thief, the court did not determine the true course of actions.

  这些指责公开之后,博纳提开始为澄清自己的名声进行诉讼。最后那家报社败诉。事实表明:由于博纳提和马赫迪没有氧气罩(氧气罩在9号营雷斯德里和科帕哥诺尼他们手上),在那晚的露营中,博纳提是不可能使用氧气的。他也没有像文章所暗示地那样抛弃了马赫迪,相反,当那两个在9号营的冲顶者拒绝下来帮助他们之时,他在黑夜中竭尽全力帮助这个罕萨人度过难关。尽管博纳提从骗子窃贼这样的指责中解脱出来,但法庭并没有做出支持博纳提诉讼的确切判决。

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