1902年，一个6人组成的欧洲登山小组，在英国人艾肯斯坦（Eckenstein）的率领下，前往攀登乔戈里峰。他们选择了季风来临前的时间进行攀登。他们首先穿越了长67公里，世界第三大的巴尔托洛（Baltoro）冰川。探险队到达了山脚，试图计划直接从南面越过东南山脊攀登乔戈里峰；但是当他们到了适当的地方之后，他们认为从东北山脊攀登可能更加容易些。几次试登之后都没有成功。他们仅仅到了海拔6，600米的地方—这一支探险队的目标不切实际，并没有意识到他们的局限所在。在当时的20世纪初期，他们对攀登如此高的一座山峰所遇到的困难束手无策。

　　1909 - THE DUKE

　　1909年—公爵之队

　　Seven years later it was time for the Duke of Abruzzis large Expedition to Karakorum and K2. Besides the scientific exploration, this royal adventurer also had plans for alpine operations. K2 wasnow scouted closely and the famous mountain photographer Vittorio Sellatook a lot of fabulous and legendary photos. To start with, they tried to reach up through the South East Ridge (that later was named after the Duke). However, the bearers were not trained for this exposed climbing (The SHERPAs were unfortunately "unknown" during the early part of the century!).

　　七年之后，阿布拉孜（Abruzzi）公爵的大型探险队抵达了喀喇昆仑山脉和乔戈里峰。除了科学勘探，这支一流的探险队还计划进行高山攀登活动。这次，乔戈里峰被仔细地侦察；闻名遐迩的山地摄影师维托里奥·萨拉（Vittorio Sella）拍摄了大量神话般的，传奇式的相片。起初，他们试图穿越东南山脊（后来这座山脊以公爵的名字命名）向上攀登。然而公爵雇佣的夏尔巴人挑夫从没接受过攀登无遮蔽山峰的训练（夏尔巴人【3】时运不济，在20世纪早期并不被世人所知！）。

　　【3】Sherpas:夏尔巴人，主要居住在中尼边境樟木口岸的立新公社（包括雪布岗）和定结县的陈塘区。居住在我国境内的人口有一千二百多人.“夏尔巴”，藏语意为“东方人”。

　　Northeast of K2, some of the expedition members reached the 6,666 metre high Savoia Saddle and from there they had a closer look at K2s Giant North-Face. Later, the expedition made an attempt to climb K2s guardian in the west, the 7,544 metre high Skyang Kangri, but a giant gorge blocked their way at 6,600 metres. However, later on Chogolisa (7,654 metres) the Duke reached 7,500 metres with a resolute attack. This became an absolute high altitude record until 1922 when it was beaten on Everest.

　　在乔戈里峰的东北，探险队的一些登山队员抵达了海拔6，666米的萨渥亚鞍部（Savoia Saddle）。在那里，他们得以近距离地观察乔戈里峰巨大的北壁。之后，探险队试图攀登乔戈里峰西部的卫峰，海拔7，544米的斯开昂堪格里峰（Skyang Kangri【4】）；但是在海拔6，600米的地方，一条巨大的峡谷挡住了他们前进的脚步。之后，在海拔7，654米的乔戈里萨峰（Chogolisa【5】，探险队凭借坚定的意志抵达了海拔7，500米的地方。这成了一个绝对的高海拔记录，这个记录直到1922年在珠穆朗玛峰（Everest）上才被打破

　　【4】Skyang Kangri：世界第70高峰。
　　【5】Chogolisa：世界第53高峰。

　　1909 - NO PROGRESS

　　1909年—毫无进展

　　The Italians now celebrated their 20 year anniversary in Karakorum. This time the expedition was lead by the Duke of Spoleto, the nephew of the Duke of Abruzzi. The scientific leader was Professor Ardito Desio and it is mainly to his credit that the expedition didnt return home completely without results.

　　意大利人此时在庆祝他们进入喀喇昆仑山脉地区20周年。这一次的探险队由阿布拉孜公爵的侄子斯伯勒托（Spoleto）公爵率领。而科学勘测方面的领队则是阿迪托·迪塞奥（Ardito Desio）教授。正是主要依靠教授的声望探险队才没有毫无结果地空手而归。

　　The plan to try climbing K2 was abandoned and it was decided to concentrate solely upon scientific work in the Baltoro region

　　试图攀登乔戈里峰的计划被取消了。探险队决定只集中精力对巴尔托洛地区进行科学勘测。

　　1938 - THE AMERICANS

　　1938年—美国之队

　　In 1938 it was time for the next expedition, organised by the American Alpine Club and led by Charles Houston, who two years previously had been on the sUCCessful expedition to Nanda Devi. They were confident of succeeding this time too! They engaged a team of excellent Sherpas, led by the famous Pasang Kikuli. In the beginning of June the wholeexpedition reached the mountain.

　　1938年，另一次探险开始了。这一次探险由美国阿尔卑斯俱乐部（Alpine Club）组织，查尔斯·休斯顿（Charles Houston）领队；查尔斯于前两年曾成功地参加了对南达德维峰【6】（Nanda Devi）的探险。他们也对这一次的成功信心百倍。他们雇佣了一队由优秀夏尔巴人组成的挑夫队伍，并由著名的帕桑·基库里（Pasang Kikuli）率领。6月初，整支探险队抵达了山脚下。

　　【6】Nanda Devi: 南达德维峰, 喜马拉雅山中段的山峰。印度北方邦北境的最高峰，海拔7，817米。冰川地形发育。