ADDITIONAL CHAPTER - BONATTIS VERSION

　　后记—有关博纳提故事的英译版本

　　On this Expedition was also a young ambitious man that had quickly become the superstar of climbing and mountaineering in Italy. Despite his very important contribution during the expedition Walter Bonatti was later accused of being a liar and a thief. He has ever since fought to clear his name. As an addition to this article, you can read about Bonattis thoughts and about his effort in this K2 expedition here.

　　在探险队里也有个雄心勃勃的年轻人华尔特·博纳提（WalterBonatti），他在意大利的登山界迅速成了一个超级明星。尽管博纳提在探险队做出了重要的贡献，但之后他被指责是骗子和窃贼。从那时起直至今日他就为澄清自己的名誉而斗争。作为这篇文章的附加部分，你可以在这里阅读有关博纳提的想法和他在乔戈里峰探险队里所做过的努力。

　　"The wall was a stiff 60 degrees, it would had been like skiing on a bell tower roof"

　　- Hans Kammerlander (trying to ski down K2)
　　-“石壁是陡峭的60度倾角，就好像是在钟塔屋顶上滑雪一样”
                                               -- 汉斯·卡梅兰德

　　K2 1954 - WALTER BONATTI

　　by Jonna Timonen for jerberyd.com　200

　　In 1954, the summit of K2 was reached for the first time by the Italians Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni. On the same expedition was a young ambitious climber who was regarded as the superstar of climbing and mountaineering in Italy. This is Walter Bonattis version.

　　1954年，意大利人里诺·雷斯德里和阿奇里·科帕哥诺尼首次成功登顶乔戈里峰。在探险队里有个雄心勃勃的年轻人华尔特·博纳提被誉为意大利登山界的超级明星。这就是有关他故事的英译版本。

　　One of the expedition members, Walter Bonatti, tells a different story of what happened on K2. Young Bonatti, aged 24 at the time, was to carry the oxygen bottles together with the Hunza porter Mahdi to Lacedelli and Compagnoni in camp 9. Before reaching the last camp where the two summiteers were waiting in their tent, darkness overtook Bonatti and Mahdi. They called out to Lacedelli and Compagnoni since they could not find the camp, but the latter did not direct them to the camp, neither did they come down to help, instead they shouted from their tent, urging the two carriers to leave the oxygen bottles and return to camp 8. This was impossible in the dark and the Blizzard and so Bonatti and Mahdi were forced to bivouac out in the open, without bivouac gear or sleeping bags. As by a miracle, Bonatti survived the bivouac without any injuries while Mahdi suffered frostbite of both hands and feet. The following morning

　　Mahdi started the return to camp 8 and Bonatti followed soon after him, leaving the oxygen bottles. Later Lacedelli and Compagnoni fetched the oxygen bottles from where they had been left. According to them the oxygen ran out halfway, but they managed to reach the summit in spite of this.

　　探险队队员华尔特·博纳提讲述了发生在乔戈里峰上不同的故事。当时，24岁春华正茂的博纳提和一个罕萨人挑夫马赫迪（Mahdi）一起负责将氧气瓶搬运到9号营给雷斯德里和科帕哥诺尼。在抵达那两个登顶者正等着他们的9号营之前，夜色的黑暗已经笼罩在博纳提他们头上了。由于他们找不到通往营地的路，他们就大声呼唤雷斯德里和科帕哥诺尼，但是那两个人并没有给他们指路，也没有下来帮助他们，而是在帐篷里大声叫喊，催促他们留下氧气瓶并返回8号营。在黑暗和暴风雪中要返回去是不可能的了，博纳提和马赫迪被迫在没有露营装备和睡袋的情况下露营。很不可思议，博纳提没受任何伤幸存下来了，而马赫迪手脚却受了冻伤。翌日清晨，马赫迪开始返回8号营，博纳提留下氧气瓶后不久也跟着返回了。之后，雷斯德里和科帕哥诺尼从博纳提他们留下氧气瓶的地方拿到了氧气瓶。据他们所说，氧气半路上就耗尽了，尽管如此，他们还是冲顶成功了。