The hard winds and storms calmed during the second half of July and the weather seemed to stabilise. Desio decided to take this opportunity as a last chance to reach the summit before the monsoon. Camp V was established at 7,300 metres and the next 300 metres above. At this point, an unfortunate thing happened: the 36 year old mountain guide Maria Puchoz from Courmayeur died of pneumonia in Camp II on July 20.

　　7月下半旬，狂风暴雪平静了下来，天气似乎变得稳定了。迪塞奥决定抓住这最后一线机会在季风来临前登顶。他们在海拔7，300米建立了5号营，在海拔7，600米建立了6号营。此时此地，噩耗发生了：来自科美亚【13】（Courmayeur）的36岁登山向导玛利奥·普卓兹教授于7月20日在2号营不幸罹患肺炎与世长辞。

　　【13】Courmayeur：科美亚，位于意大利西北边界的Valle dAosta (瓦莱达奥斯塔）区，是著名的滑雪胜地。

　　The Expedition continued and Camp VIII was pushed forward to 8,150 metres, right below the 200 metre high and steep wall that is considered to be the climbs key to sUCCess. On July 28, four men reached Camp VIII in the evening and spent the night there. Of these four, two climbed on towards the summit next morning. Up on the ridge, just 200 metres below the top the oxygen suddenly ran out. What to do? Continue or descend? They continued without oxygen and finally reached the summit in the afternoon after a hard struggle. K2s summit is reached for the first time. They didnt stay long. The Descent became dramatic when oneofthe companions fell but managed to stop the fall with his ice AXE and his partners safety. At 2:30 p.m. the duo reached Camp VIII where their friends welcomed them with hot drinks. Everybody safely reached Base Camp on August 2.

　　探险队继续攀登，并将8号营向前推进到海拔8，150米的地方，正好处于一块高200米的陡峭石壁下方，这块石壁被认为是能否攀登成功的关键所在。7月28日，四名队员在晚上抵达了8号营并在那里过夜。这四个人当中，有两人在翌日清晨向峰顶冲击。在离峰顶还有200米的山脊上，氧气突然耗光了。怎么办？继续攀登还是下撤？他们决定不用氧气继续攀登。经过艰辛挣扎他们终于在下午抵达了峰顶。人类首次登顶乔戈里峰成功了。他们并没有待很久时间。下撤变得戏剧性：有个队员掉下去了但他成功地用冰镐和同伴的安全设施制止住了滑落。下午两点半，有两个队员抵达了8号营，他们的朋友们以热水欢迎他们凯旋。8月2日，每一个队员都安全抵达了大本营。

　　Who were the two climbers that reached the summit? It wasnt made public until the expedition came back to Italy. Desio wanted everyone to have the credit; the whole team was responsible for the success. The ascenders were Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni.

　　谁是最后登顶的两名登山员？探险队直到回到意大利才对公众宣布。迪塞奥想让每个人都能享受这种声誉；成功是整个探险队的功劳。登顶的两个人是里诺·雷斯德里（Lino Lacedelli）和阿奇里·科帕哥诺尼（Achille Compagnoni）。