Outside the courtroom Bonatti has for almost half a century maintained his version of the story. He argues that the oxygen bottles could not have run out before Lacedelli and Compagnoli reached the summit. The statement that they couldn’t be bothered to take the empty cylinders off their backs, and instead carried them to the summit, is absurd; the burden of empty oxygen bottles is too heavy to carry climbing in thin air not to be bothered to remove them. Bonatti himself took the full bottle off and on several times without much effort while searching for the last camp. A more significant feature is a photograph taken on the summit where Lacedelli is still wearing his oxygen mask. This clearly points to the fact that there was indeed oxygen left, he would have no reason whatsoever to wear the mask should the bottle be empty; on the contrary, he would have got the feeling of suffoCATing.

　　法庭之外，博纳提为了维护他对这一事件的个人看法几乎花了半个世纪的时间。他争辩说，氧气在雷斯德里和科帕哥诺尼冲顶之前是不可能耗尽的。他们不想那么麻烦把空氧气瓶从背上卸下来，而是把氧气瓶背上了峰顶，这种陈述真是荒唐可笑之极。在稀薄的空气中攀登，空氧气瓶的负担太重了，是不可能背得上去的，而且要卸掉空氧气瓶也不是很费劲的事。在探寻去9号营的路上，博纳提自己有好几次就毫无费力地把充满氧气的瓶子从背上卸下来。有张在峰顶上拍的，更值得注意的特写相片，在相片里雷斯德里还戴着氧气罩。这张相片清楚地指出了确实还剩下氧气的事实。如果氧气瓶是空的，他没理由不管什么情况下都要戴着氧气罩，相反，这会致使他窒息的。

　　So the Italian sUCCess of 1954 remains, but the versions of the preceding EVENTs differ. Was it an Expedition that succeeded in spite of the betrayal of a young ambitious man, or was it the survival of a young ambitious man in spite of the betrayal of his expedition? Bonatti presents his version of the expedition in his book “The Mountains of My Life”.

　　1954年意大利人的登顶成功无可置疑，但是对于先前发生的事情，人们各执一词。是这位雄心勃勃的年轻人背叛探险队之后，探险队仍旧取得成功；还是探险队在背叛他之后，这位雄心勃勃的年轻人幸存下来呢？博纳提把他对探险队的个人看法都写在了他所著的《我生命中的高山》这本书中了。

　　- "The only logical deduction is that no one has ever really wanted either to confront or to resolve the whole false history of K2 nor expose the one terrible lie that is also most blatanty obvious."

　　- Walter Bonatti(The mountains of my life)

　　-“唯一具有逻辑性的推论就是：没有人真正想要对证或解决整个虚伪的乔戈里峰攀登史的疑惑；也没有人想要揭发这个极其显而易见的可怕谎言。”

　　-华尔特·博纳提《我生命中的高山》

　　声明：本文出自http://www.jerberyd.com/climbing/stories/k2/index.htm

　　本文中文翻译：伊豆舞士，本文经原作者同意翻译成中文，并发布于“户外资料网”