版权声明：可以任意转载，转载时请务必以超链接形式标明文章原始出处和作者信息及本声明

　　http://www.8264.com/6593.html

　　The climbing history of K2【1】, Chogori, Mount Godwin-Austen, from the first try in 1902, until the Italian sUCCess in 1954.

　　【1】K2：在国外西方人习惯称呼的K2峰，在国内则被习惯称之为乔戈里峰。为了符合国内称谓习惯，本译文对文中的称谓“K2”全部译为“乔戈里峰”！

　　1856 - DISCOVERED AND NAMED

　　1856年—发现并被命

　　K2 was first described by the British colonel T.G. Montgomery in 1856 while doing a survey of the area. He named the peaks in the order he saw them, K1, K2, K3, etc. The K stands for Karakorum. Today K2 is the only major mountain that still uses its surveyors notation name as its most common name. K2 with its height of 8,611 meters is the second highest mountain in the world and is regarded as one of the hardest to climb.

　　乔戈里峰首先是被英国陆军上校T.G.蒙特哥摩利（T.G.Montgomery）在他1856年对喀喇昆仑地区进行的勘测中描述。他以K1、K2、K3等这样的顺序来给他所见到的山峰命名。字母K代表喀喇昆仑山脉【2】。今天，K2峰（即乔戈里峰）是绝无仅有的、现在仍在使用以勘探员赋予的名字作为它最常用名的主要山峰。乔戈里峰海拔8，611米，是世界第二高峰，并被认为是最难攀登的山峰之一。

　　【2】喀喇昆仑山脉：是一条走向与旁遮普·喜马雅山（大喜马拉雅山脉的一部分）相平行的大山脉。它延伸约400千米，通过印度和巴基斯坦北部。“喀喇昆仑”在土耳其语中意为“黑色碎石”。

　　1902 - THE FIRST TRY

　　1902年—首次尝试

　　In 1902, a six-man group of European climbers, led by the Englishman Eckenstein, headed for K2. They chose the time before the monsoon.

　　They first crossed the Baltoro glacier, which with its length of 67 kilometres is the worlds third largest. The Expedition reached the mountains foot and planned to make the attempt directly from the south over the Southeast Ridge, but when in place they came to the conclusion that the Northeast Ridge is probably much eASIer. Several attempts were made without success. They only reached 6,600 metres - this group had an unrealistic goal, and didnt realise their limits. At this time, early in the century, they had no idea of the difficulties in ascending such a high mountain.